GUIDING IN CHAMONIX AND 4000METER WEEK IN ZERMATT/SAAS FEE

On the weekend March 30. to April 1., I guided ski touring around Chamonix with Ellen, Morten and Christopher. We had amazing weather, the snow was not the best, but we found some nice slush every day. The first day we skied from Aiguille du Midi and over to the Italian border and down the Glacier de Toule to Helbronner mid station for lunch there. In the afternoon we skied back down Glacier du Geant and down to Montenvers. Day 2 we went to the Argentier basin and skied to Col d’ Argentier. On sunday we went to the Aiguille Rouges and Col du Belvedere.

The same afternoon I finished work in Chamonix I drove to Zermatt for 6 days of 4000 meter peak bagging between Zermatt and Saas Fee with Ola and Petter. They had already been acclimatizing for a few days so the first day we could climb Breithorn (4164m) and Pollux (4092m) before we skied down the Swarztor gletscher. Day two we took an early train to Saas Fee and climbed Allalinhorn (4027m) before we skied to the Britannia hut. In that afternoon the weather changed, after 2 weeks with perfect blu sky it finally started snowing. Day 3 the weather was not the best i and we were the only one leaving the hut after a early breakfast. But after a few hours we were above the clouds and on top of Stralhorn (4190m). We continued down Adlerpass to Findelgletscher, and in bad weather, we skinned up to Stockhornpass and traversed to my favorite hut, the New Monte Rosa Hut. Day 4 it had been snowing all night and it was still snowing in the morning. We had planed some kind of rest day and after a late start we skinned a few hundred meters up the Monte Rosa Gletscher towards Dufourspitze as the weather cleared. The skiing back down to the hut was amazing, 50cm of perfect snow. To bad my skies was only 80mm under foot. Day 5 the plan was to climb Dufourspitze (4634m) and Nordend (4609m), the two highest mountains in Switzerland. The weather was perfect and I had one of my most beautiful mornings in the mountains. But we had to turn around at 4250m, with all the fresh snow on top of hard crust, we could not justify to continue. So we enjoyed the same snow on the way down to the hut and continued down to Zermatt for lunch. The last day the weather forecast was not so good, but in the morning it was ok and we hoped to climb Castor(4223m) before it started snowing. Timing was perfect, we summited and it started snowing when we were  down on the lower Gornergletscher after skiing the Swarztor once again.

So, finally, after 20 days of ski touring boots I could have some days of.
The last two days I haven’t done much except resting and trying to catch up on my computer work. This morning I went up in the Aiguille Rouges and skied the Glacier du Mort. Since it’s north facing I had hoped to find good snow, but I was wrong, there had been to much wind.

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