Posts Tagged ‘Hörnli’


The day after summiting Matterhorn with Karine I started a new 5-day Matterhorn program with Ståle. The first day we climbing on the south face of Riffelhorn before we walked over to Hotel Flualp at 2620m. The next morning we hoped to climb Rimpfischhorn (4199m). We started in rain at night and the weather did not look to promising, but it was not to bad either. We summited in some wind, but on the descent it started snowing and the wind increased. It continued to snow/rain for the rest of the day and night. On day 3 we planed to do the full Breithorn traverse, but after all the snowfall the previous day we ended up doing only the half-traverse. On day 4 we walked up to the Hörnli hut, the weather was good and the hut was full. The next day it was a really busy day on Matterhorn. Conditions was good, but we had to wear crampons from approximately 3850m. We summited quite early and did not meet the worst queue before we were on the fixed ropes on the descent. Below are some pictures from the whole week.

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The last weeks I’ve been in the Alps guiding. From July 21.-26. I was guiding Karine on a Matterhorn program. First we had 4 beautiful days i Chamonix doing Aiguille du Moine, the Midi-Plan Traverse and the Cosmique Ridge. Then we traveled to Switzerland and Zermatt. There we walked up to the Hörnli Hut and on July 26. we climbed Matterhorn. It was a good day on Matterhorn, weather was perfect, conditions were quite good and it was not to much people. Below are some pictures from the whole week.

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On the weekend March 30. to April 1., I guided ski touring around Chamonix with Ellen, Morten and Christopher. We had amazing weather, the snow was not the best, but we found some nice slush every day. The first day we skied from Aiguille du Midi and over to the Italian border and down the Glacier de Toule to Helbronner mid station for lunch there. In the afternoon we skied back down Glacier du Geant and down to Montenvers. Day 2 we went to the Argentier basin and skied to Col d’ Argentier. On sunday we went to the Aiguille Rouges and Col du Belvedere.

The same afternoon I finished work in Chamonix I drove to Zermatt for 6 days of 4000 meter peak bagging between Zermatt and Saas Fee with Ola and Petter. They had already been acclimatizing for a few days so the first day we could climb Breithorn (4164m) and Pollux (4092m) before we skied down the Swarztor gletscher. Day two we took an early train to Saas Fee and climbed Allalinhorn (4027m) before we skied to the Britannia hut. In that afternoon the weather changed, after 2 weeks with perfect blu sky it finally started snowing. Day 3 the weather was not the best i and we were the only one leaving the hut after a early breakfast. But after a few hours we were above the clouds and on top of Stralhorn (4190m). We continued down Adlerpass to Findelgletscher, and in bad weather, we skinned up to Stockhornpass and traversed to my favorite hut, the New Monte Rosa Hut. Day 4 it had been snowing all night and it was still snowing in the morning. We had planed some kind of rest day and after a late start we skinned a few hundred meters up the Monte Rosa Gletscher towards Dufourspitze as the weather cleared. The skiing back down to the hut was amazing, 50cm of perfect snow. To bad my skies was only 80mm under foot. Day 5 the plan was to climb Dufourspitze (4634m) and Nordend (4609m), the two highest mountains in Switzerland. The weather was perfect and I had one of my most beautiful mornings in the mountains. But we had to turn around at 4250m, with all the fresh snow on top of hard crust, we could not justify to continue. So we enjoyed the same snow on the way down to the hut and continued down to Zermatt for lunch. The last day the weather forecast was not so good, but in the morning it was ok and we hoped to climb Castor(4223m) before it started snowing. Timing was perfect, we summited and it started snowing when we were  down on the lower Gornergletscher after skiing the Swarztor once again.

So, finally, after 20 days of ski touring boots I could have some days of.
The last two days I haven’t done much except resting and trying to catch up on my computer work. This morning I went up in the Aiguille Rouges and skied the Glacier du Mort. Since it’s north facing I had hoped to find good snow, but I was wrong, there had been to much wind.

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Since last blog update I’ve been busy. On March 17. I started in what has become the worlds biggest cross-country ski race – Birkebeineren. It was 11 years since my last ski race so I did not have to high goals, except to beat most of my old training buddies from Gran. The race is 54km, my skies was not the best for the first half, but they got better for the last half. I finished as 141 of around 16.000, not to bad for a mountain guide. But most important, I was faster than my friends from Gran :)
On the 18. I traveled to Chamonix to start guiding in the Alps the day after. Of course, one of my bags was delayed. All my ski gear was missing and I had a stressful day and night to get ready for Haute Route. Never book your flights through Copenhagen with less than one and a half hour for transit. It seams like thats the minimum it takes for the Copenhagen airport to move bags from one plane to another. I’ve had my bags delayed there once before and have had many clients who did not get they’re bags either.

Haute Route was fun, great clients and both weather and skiing was good. The first day we had heavy snowfall, but after that, mostly blue sky, no wind and warm for being March. We did the Verbier route, conditions in general is better than at the same time last year. But if this warm temperatures continues, the snow in south and west facing aspects will not last much longer.
After Haute Route I had one rest day in Zermatt before I started guiding again. The weather was still good and I wanted to get to know the area between Saas Fee and Zermatt better. I’m having a 6-days program there in easter. So, early in the morning I got on the first train to Saas Fee. First I climbed Allalinhorn, a 4000meter peak that is easy accessible from the ski lift. After that I climbed the ridge over to Feechopf and down to Alphubeljoch. Then I skied down to the Mellich-gletscher and up to Allalinpass, down to Allalin-gletscher and up to Adlerpass and down to Zermatt. A perfect day, but not exactly a rest day.

The next day I started a 3-days guiding around Zermatt. We had various planes, but because of some sickness we ended up doing something completely different from everything we had planed.
The first day we skied to the Monte Rosa hut, this was my first time at the new hut and it was almost better than I’ve been told. Day two, we climbed towards Dufourspitze, but had no plans about summiting. We turned around just above 4000meters and skied down to the hut. On north facing aspects we could still find good snow. The last day we skied down to Furi and took the lift to Kl Matterhorn. From there we climbed Breithorn and skied down the Swartztor gletscher – Zermatt’s Valle Blanch – before traveled back to Chamonix.

Today is a big organizing day before I start guiding again the next 9 days. I needed to get an look at conditions here so in the morning I went for a quick ski in the Aiguilles Rouges.

Below is a few pictures from the last 11 days.
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Here’s a short movie from me guiding the Hörnli ridge on Matterhorn Aug. 24. with Erik Stordal.



Sunrise on summit of Mont Blanc. We are already on the way down

The last three weeks I’ve been guiding in the Alps. First in Chamonix with two 6 days Mont Blanc programs. Then I moved to Zermatt to guide Matterhorn. Unfortunately I did not get any climbing done on my own. The weather and conditions were really good for most of my stay, but it was raining hard on all my days off. Below is pictures from acclimatization on both Mont Blanc weeks and from summit days on Mont Blanc and Matterhorn. First time on Matterhorn we started from Tête Rousse hut and climbed the Goûter route up and The Three Monts route down. The second time, we also did the traverse, but this time starting from Cosmiques Hut and climbed Three Monts up and Goûter down. On Matterhorn we climbed Hornli both up and down.

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Per Magne on GrandCapucin

Sept 4.2010

After a summer with two much work in Norway I traveled to the Alpes on August 8. for some work and hopefully some climbing on my own. First I traveled to Valais to do a couple of recognition climbs for guiding later in the month. Then I traveled to Chamonix to climb for a week with Trym. But the day Trym arrived it started to rain in town and snow up high and the forecast said it would be like that for 4 days all over the Central Alpes. We packed rope and quickdraws, and together with some friends left Cham and drove down to Ceüse. There, the weather was better but for a mountain guide who mainly been walking and climbing grade 3 all summer, everything but the approach felt very steep.

When weather looked better for the Alpes we went back to Chamonix, there it had snowed  around 50 cm at 3000 meters, but after some days of good weather we hoped that it had melted enough and headed up to the Enveres hut. But we were to early and everything was still wet. Trym went home and the last day before I started working I teamed up with Ole Kristian and Steinar for a day at the south face of Midi. Weather was not very good, light snowfall at times and forecast said thunderstorm in early afternoon so we did Rebuffat to be sure to get up before the weather came. All of us had done the route before, but it was nice to finally do some climbing in the mountains and we had a very fun day, specially at the belays…

On August 21. I started a 6 days Matterhorn program with two Norwegians – Tone and Knut Johan Stenerud. First we had three days in Saastal with some rock climbing on Dri Horlini and a ascent of Weissmies (4017m). In the afternoon on the third day we traveled to Zermatt, there we did Breithorn (4164m) the next day. All week it was very uncertain about how conditions would be on Matterhorn. The big snowfall a week earlier had left around 60cm of snow at the Hörnli hut and a lot more on the mountain. It was melting every day, but we didn’t know if it would be enough. But with the good weather forecast we decided to try. On Matterhorn the guide:client ratio is 1:1 so Rok Zalokar, my Slovenian friend and guide joined us for the ascent. I started early from Zermatt on the 25. to climb a little higher then the Hörnli to check out conditions. I turned back at the Shoulder at 4200m, up to there conditions were good but above it looked like it was a lot of snow. As always on the Hörnli hut, “breakfast” is served at 04.00 and all guided parties start at 04.20. The ascent went OK, some queuing the first hour and the normal chaos on the fixed ropes up high. We summited 08.30 in blue sky and perfect weather. On the descent it was even more chaos than on the ascent but below the Shoulder everything went smoothly and we were at the hut again before 13.00.

After Matterhorn I traveled back Chamonix for some climbing in the mountains. But the weather was not the best and I just ended up rock climbing close to Sallanches and in Italy. When it finally cleared again Per Magne and I had two great days on the granite. The first day we climbed on the south face of Pointe Lachenal and the next day we wanted to try Grand Capucin. Capucin is not a very high summit, but on of the most impressing granite towers in the Mont Blanc massif. The 400 meter high east face has the most challenging routes, we climbed a combination of Voie des Suisses and O Sole Mio on the South face, mostly grade 5 with some pitches of 6. It was for sure on of my best days of rock climbing in the Alpes! Now I start 6 days of work in Chamonix and we hope to climb Mont Blanc.


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On March 28. I started two weeks of guiding Haute Route – from Chamonix to Zermatt for Breogfjell. On the first trip, we had a lot of snow and wind on the first days and the avalanche bulletin said grade 4. So instead of doing the Col du Chardonnet to the Trient Hut we did the Col du Tour Noir and skied back down to Grand Montets and took a taxi to Verbier. The next days we experienced all types of weather and snow before it finally cleared and we had perfect weather and good skiing down to Zermatt.

The next week Breogfjell had two groups on Haute Route, Stein Møller and me guiding the Verbier-variant and Halvor Dannevig doing the classic route. The first day it was snowing a lot, but starting from Argentier Hut in the morning of April 5., we had clear sky and a lot of fresh snow. Breaking trail all the way to Trient Hut was hard work. The next morning we had good snow and perfect skiing down Val d´Arpette to Champex. The same day, we also had good skiing from the summit of Rosablanche and down to the Prafleuri Hut. From Prafleuri to Dix we had good weather and those who went up to La Luette in the afternoon had good skiing down. Over Pigne d´Arolla, weather was changing and skiing down to Vignettes Hut was memorable, but not in a good way. I had a cold and some fever the whole week and when one client wanted to go down to Arolla the next morning, I was happy to join him while Stein and Halvor took the two groups safely to Zermatt.

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HAUTE ROUTE – Ski Chamonix to Zermatt with guide

For many reasons, the classic ski tour from Chamonix to Zermatt has become one of the best known skitours in the world. Traveling from one one historic town to the next, it takes you into the heart of the Alps and into some amazing alpine terrain. You ski through high cols, hidden valleys, high peaks and spectacular glaciers. And the complex hut system in the Alps makes it possible to travel light and comfortable. No matter how much skiing you have done and how many places you have visited – Haute Route will be a unique experience.


There is also a lot of other Haute Routes (high routes) in the Alps. But the Chamonix-Zermatt is the most famous and most popular and is often synonym to Haute Route. The Verbier variant is the easiest and most popular of this, but the the Original route is more challenging and spectacular, traveling the Plateau Couloir and visiting the Valsorey hut. Or you can do other different variants to the Chamonix-Zermatt tour. and you can also add some extra days after arriving in Zermatt, either ski to Saas Fee or ascend the summit of Breithorn or Monte Rosa.
And if you want to do a ski tour in other places in the Alps, such as Berner Oberland, Silveretta or other places, please let me know.

Where: Chamonix to Zermatt 
Duration: 5 or 6 days 
When: March to end of April
Routes: The Verbier Route or the Classic route via Valsorey Hut.
Difficulties: You should be used to ski in varied terrain, both up and down. Haute Route is never very difficult or very hard, but it still requires that you are an intermediate skier and that you are used to ski with a heavy (10-12kg) backpack.
If you are not sure if you got what it takes I recommend a training tour in Norway or the Alps in advance.
Gear: You need normal ski touring gear that are not to heavy.
Telemark gear works but alpine touring gear is much better. Snowboard or Splitboard
are not made for Haute Route! You will get a complete gear list when booking.
Ratio: 6:1 on the Verbier route and 4:1 on the Classic route

Price from: 
NOK 5500,- per person for 5 days
(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all expenses for your guide)



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Soloppgang på Matterhorn

Soloppgang på Matterhorn


Sammen med Mont Everest er Matterhorn et av verdens mest kjente og ikoniske fjell – en frittstående pyramide som rager høyere enn 1000 meter over fjellene rundt – og sett fra Zermatt er Matterhorn et fantastisk skue. Og klatre på Matterhorn er krevende og kan være veldig utsatt om du ikke vet hva du gjør. Vi har guidet Matterhorn mange ganger og kjenner fjellet godt. Hörnli-ruta som klatres fra den Sveitsiske siden involverer 1200meter med alt fra utsatt gåing til klyving og bratt snø og is.

Fantastisk soloppgang høyt på Matterhorn

For å klatre Matterhorn må du være i  god fysisk form og være vant til å ferdes i utsatt terreng – noe klatreerfaring bør du også ha.
Du må være godt forberedt og godt akklimatisert. Vi ønsker i utgangspunktet at du bruker 4 dager (6 dager totalt) til forberedelse og akklimatisering sammen med oss, men vi kan også gjøre det på 3 dager totalt. En testtur vil vi uansett ha.
Vi kan også klatre fjellet fra Italia og Cervina, denne turen er litt mer krevende, men har vesentlig mindre folk og er vel så fin.
Forberedelsene og akklimatiseringen for Matterhorn gjør vi normalt i fjellene rundt Chamonix eller Zermatt – vi legger opp spennende turer som passer ditt nivå og klatrer et eller flere 4000meters fjell på veien.
Ta kontakt for mer info og evt spørsmål.

Hvor: Zermatt eller Cervina
Varighet: 3-6 dager
Når: Juli til tidlig September
Vanskelighetsgrad: Matterhorn er 1200 meter med klyving. Du må være i god form og vant til å ferdes i fjellet på snø is og klippe.
Antall gjester: 1 gjest pr fører på Matterhorn, opp til 2 gjester pr fører på akklimatisering
Pris: 20.000 pr pers for 5 dager med 2 pers. (en fører i 3 dager så to førere de 2 siste dagene)
Prisen inkluderer førere og alle deres kostnader. Dine reisekostnader og kostnader på hytter kommer i tillegg.

Her er en liten film fra Matterhorn 24. August 2011