Posts Tagged ‘isklatring’


On May 3rd til 10th I was in Jostedalen in Sogn working with the guide-training for NORTIND (Norske Tindevegledere). NORTIND is the Norwegian mountain guide association and we educate guides to become IFMGA/UIAGM/IVBV certified guide. This was a glacier course for the group who started in 2011. Andreas Haslestad, Jostein AAsen and I was the instructors.
Learn more about NORTIND here.

Below is pictures from a week on the glacier. After all, glacier is not so bad when the weather is good.


Back in Norway for a few weeks. Last week I was one of the teachers for the candidates on the Norwegian IFMGA guide training program. It was a ice climbing course held in my home area – Romsdalen. I’m very happy to be a part of the guide training and as always, this courses are very inspiring and fun work. And I think it’s a great that I can give something back to the Norwegian guide association – NORTIND. The only thing that’s a bit boring aboute this courses is that I don’t do any leading, just seconding.
But this was not the best days for a climbing course, during the course we had more than one meter of fresh snow. Because of all the snow and high avalanche risk we could not do any of the longer routes we had planed. And to be honest, we could barely get on anything at all.
The last day of the course we used a lift block to pull various V-anchors and ice screws in a lot of different ice. To pull ice gear is always very interesting and and you learn a lot, or maybe you don’t? At least its very difficult to generalize from it. Normally anchors in good ice is very strong and the rest is….sometimes strong, and sometimes not. But it’s fun to place a ice screw, feel how the ice is when drilling it into the ice and then make a guess aboute how strong it is.

Below is a few pictures and a short video from pulling an ice screw.

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Starting on Hunter


I’m just back from a climbing trip with American Colin Haley to the Central Alaska range. When we left, we had a lot of different objectives in mind and ambitious plans. We ended up without doing any of the bigger climbs we had hoped for, but nevertheless, we had a good trip. Our main objectives was to climb the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter and the Cassin ridge on Denali. We wanted to climb both as fast as possible, hopefully faster than it had ever been done before.

Colin updated his blog some days ago with words and pictures, check it out HERE. He’s not as lazy as me and has a more complete report. He’s english is a lot better also 😉

Here’s my quick resume of the trip:

We flew on to the glacier on May 12. and after some days of acclimatizing around base camp we climbed the 1200 meter high Deprivation on the north buttress of Hunter in just 9 hours, but never summited. When we toped out the final ice band it started to snow hard. We sat in a crevasse for some hours hoping for better weather, but it just got worse. We had no bivi gear and bailed, abseiling 30 or so abseils in very bad spindrift through the night.

After that we moved up on Denali, acclimatizing from 14.000 camp. We had skis so we did a bunch of skiing, often in good snow. We summited Denali twice, first climbing the Upper West Rib. Later we climbed up the Orient Express with skis and skied from the summit and down the Orient. Conditions were ok, but the snow was very hard in the upper half of the Orient.

After that it snowed a bunch and time started to run out. When the weather finally got better we decided to try Cassin. We knew there would be a lot of fresh snow on the route and if we had more time we would have waited for the snow to settle, but we didn’t. Conditions on the Seattle 71 ramp approach and in the Japanese Couloir were super good, but after that it was just snow, snow and more snow. When we got to the top of the third rock band we were so tiered that we decided to bail. We traversed the upper part of the south-west face back to the upper west rib and down to camp. A few days later, on June 21., we flew out of the range, Colin back to Seattle and me home to Norway.

Below there is a lot of pictures from the trip, click on images to see larger versions.


Eiger seen from Kleine Scheidegg

Eiger and it’s 1800meter high north face is one of the most impressive features in the Alpes. The drama prior to the first ascent, all the impressive routes and all the books and movies made about it, both documentaries and fiction, has made Eiger one of the best known mountain in the world. The first ascent route from July 1938 by Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek is the most famous and most climbed route in the Nordwand.

I’ve wanted to climb the Eigerwand by its classic route for very long, simply because I’ve read and heard so much about the wall. It’s one of those mountains you just cant get out of your head. Same as for the Trollwall in Norway, witch I still haven’t climbed. Not yet.

I traveled to the Alpes on February 8. knowing that the Alpes hadn’t had any big snowfalls for a long time and that conditions on many of the big alpine faces was good. I received a mail from my Grindelwald friend Andreas the same same day as I left, saying conditions was good on Eiger. And flying into Geneva in good weather I had a perfect view straight onto the Eigerwand. I couldn’t wait to climb it, just needed to find a partner.

I had two days of acclimatization in Chamonix first – soloing a easy route on the Tacul Triangle to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul and the next day, soloing Fil a Plumb in the north face of Midi/Col du Plan. I was living in the same apartment as Ole Kristian Nytrøen and when I started talking about Eiger he was of course keen. Ole is one of very few young Norwegians who are keen on alpine climbing and he was the perfect partner for Eiger.

We slept comfy inside the Eigergletscher station the night before the climb and started just before 03.00 on February 12. And the climb went quite smooth. Conditions was very good with tracks on the snowfields, sometimes to much. In the dark, we had a hard time finding the Difficult crack because we followed the wrong tracks… Except for the 4 (or so) crux’s pitches we mostly simul-climbed and summited a little more than 12 hours after we started climbing. Not to bad, but still more than 4 times longer then the Swiss machine Ueli Steck. We descended the west face and made it back to Eigergletscher in a 15 hours roundtrip. We then walked back to Grindelwald and drove back to Chamonix the same night, making it a really long day. Modern alpinism – sleeping comfy, going light and fast and making it back home for a beer. Today we climb much faster than the pioneers and that might seems very impressive, but we are just lacy and sissies compered to the climbers who pioneered this big faces back in the golden age of alpinism.

The Eigerwand has been called “an obsession for the mentally deranged” and maybe it is? But the only way to get healed was to climb it. And in the process I got an adventure into alpine climbing history and a fantastic alpine terrain.

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Bjørn Kruse on Kjørlifossen

January and first part of February I’ve been in Norway. Working quite a bit, but also been skiing and climbing with friends. I’ve had to nice weekends skiing with clients in Romsdalen, the rest of the time I’ve been in the eastern parts of Norway – Rjukan, Hemsedal and Lærdal for ice climbing – mostly work. Below you can see some pictures from the ice climbing.

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PATAGONIA – Nov/Des 2010

Torre Summits

In early November, Ole Lied and I traveled to Chalten in Argentinean Patagonia hoping for good weather and a lot of climbing. But both of us knew that Patagonia is just as famous for it high winds and bad weather as for its good climbing.

We arrived in the end of a good weather window and carried all our gear into the Torre valley in perfect weather. We wanted to try Exocet on Cerro Standhardt, a classic ice/mix route on the easiest of the Torre summits. The next day the weather was not so good and wind was almost blowing us out of balance on the first mix pitches from Standhardt Col. The ramp was in the shade of the wind and we moved quite fast in good conditions. In the chimney the spindrift was constant but ice was good and we made steady progress. The chimney is narrow and its almost impossible to hide from ice falling from the leader. On pitch three of the chimney Ole was leading and was almost at the next belay when one big chunk of ice hit me. Everything was black for some seconds and my head and neck hurt like hell. My helmet was smashed and we decided to go home, to bad since we had done most of the hard climbing, but the only smart thing to do. The next day we walked back to Chalten in rain and wind.

The next weeks we tried to climb some routes but weather was mostly bad. We “missed” one good weather window when we started to early and turned back (did’t get far) in a bad storm, just to wake up in the tent again some hours later to perfect weather. We climbed Todo O Nada, a easy ice route on El Mocho. Its did’t feel right to be on a route like that in such good weather when we should have been climbing on one of the bigger peaks. The same day Colin was the first to solo Exocet (very impressive!) and Bjørn-Eivind and Robert also climbed Exocet.

Back in Chalten we did our best to make the days fly by. Bouldering, sport climbing, running, hiking, eating big Argentinean stakes and tasting the Vino Tinto. But not necessarily in that order…

Just before we went home we climbed Whillans-Cochrane route on Aguja Poincenot, one of the most majestic summits in the Fitz Roy massif. The weather was quite good, but the wind was high all day and although the climbing never is hard it was hard enough for us that day, we did everything in big boots and with gloves. It was good to get one real summit before we went home to celebrate Christmas in Norway.

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Grandes Jorasses – Colton/MacIntyre

Grand Jorasses seen from Le Courtes, March 2010

After a long summer with to much work it was nice to finally finish the guiding season in september. But back home in Norway I just wanted to go back to the Alps for some alpine climbing. Big snowfalls in august could make the north faces would come in early this year. And it’s so easy to be a alpinist today, specially for climbing in the Alps, just google the routes you want to do and hopefully you get a fresh trip report. As expected – the Grandes Jorasses was in!

After a while I convinced Steinar Grynning to come with me and we arrived in Chamonix in early October to perfect weather. We started acclimatization by climbing a route from the Cunningham Couloir and up to the Cosmiques Ridge. The next day we climbed a route on the Tacule Triangle and to the summit.

Ever since the first time I saw the huge north face of Grandes Jorasses, after skiing the Breche Puiseux, I’ve wanted to climb the Jorasses. And last year I finally did by climbing Slovenien route to Croz spur with Eiliv Ruud. But Colton-Mac is the real deal, a awesome line, so I knew had to do that one also.

We packed and planed to take the train to Montenvers, but showing up at the station around mid day we couldn’t believe what we saw – the train finished for the season YESTERDAY. FU%&! After 5 minutes discussion we decided to take the Midi lift and traverse from the Plan de l`Aguille to the Montenvers. It took us some time, but not to bad and we were at the Leschaux hut around 18.00. With a early start we crossed the bergschround in the dark and started up what felt like endless ice slopes. But conditions were good and we found nevee most of the way. We roped up in the middle of the first narrow section and climbed one looong pitch to the ice crux. The deal was that Steinar should take the ice and I should take the headwall. The ice crux says grade 6 in the guidebook. It was not as steep as expected, but one good piece of gear in 30 meters was quite interesting, also for the belayer. Some more low angled ice took us to the final headwall, witch we knew would be the crux of the climb. Not just because of the climbing, but also because of the route finding. We swapped lead and I started up a thin runnel of ice. Protection was difficult to get, but the climbing was never desperate so it was OK. It took some time, but we summited after 10 hours and 30 minutes on the face.

The normal route from Italy is a big route in itself and we wanted to get all the 2700 vertical meters down to the valley. We got of the glacier just when it got dark and stopped to melt some water. The rest of the descent with headlamps was hard for tiered legs, but we made it all the way down. And a BIG thanks to Joacim for driving throw the tunnel to pick us up!

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The east ridge on Courte with Grand Jorasses behind

After guiding Haute Route two times in two weeks I was looking forward to a week off, to get out climbing and skiing on my own. Before I was back in Chamonix, Colin Haley called and asked if I wanted to climb the north face of Droites with him the day after. Still not fully recovered from my cold I said no, but after a couple of hours of regret I said yes.

On April 10. we had a “cragging” approach to the 1000 meter high face by taking the first lift in the morning and starting climbing at 10 am. We did the classic route, Ginat, and found good conditions on the snowy, lower part and OK, but a little dry conditions on the steeper upper part. We did not go to the true summit, but as most others only climbed to the Breche des Droites. The climb took us 5 hours and 30 minutes. The “descent” was down the south side and then up the south side and west ridge of Les Courtes making it a very long day. And in the afternoon clouds, we had a hard time finding the Col de la Tour the Courtes.

Some days later I went up to ski the Gervasutti couloir on La tour Ronde with Colin and Marion Poitivin. Tour Ronde is a small summit on the French-Italian border close to Helbronner. The skiing was not the best, lots of rock at the top of the couloir and fresh snow on top of a hard layer further down. But we had a good day out.

The day after, Colin, Magnus, Jonno and me, headed up the Argentiere glacier for skiing the NE-face of Les Courtes. Descending it some days earlier after the Droites-Courtes climb we thought that conditions would be perfect for steep skiing. And it was, except for the skiers right side of the face. Magnus tried that and ended up tomahawking the entire 700 vertical meters, 45-50 degree face. We feared the worst and was very relieved to see him move after the long fall. Jonno called rescue while Colin and me started skiing down to Magnus. Except for some bruises on the arm, Magnus was fine. But he was taken by the PGHM rescue to the hospital in Sallanches for a routine check.

On April 16., Colin and me took the last lift to sleep at the top of Grand Montets to start early the next day. We wanted to do a linkup in the Argentier basin by climbing the three north faces of Verte, Droites and Courtes in one go. We started at 5 am the next morning and climbed Verte up and down by the classic Couturier couloir. This day was more about endurance then technical climbing so we did routes that we could simul-solo. After Verte we climbed the Lagarde direct to the true summit of Droites. As last time, we descended the south side and ascended Courtes from the west. The plan was to downclimb the NE face and then climb the Swiss route on Courtes. But after descending the NE our motivation was lame  for climbing the Courtes again. So we walked back to our skis and skied down to Argentier. After all we was satisfied with three summits and after ascending and descending around 3000 vertical meters in 12 hours.

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Les Courtes North face…mostly skiing

On March 16. I traveled to Chamonix for 6 weeks, 3 of them for work. Before the guiding started I had 10 days of skiing and climbing on my own. When I arrived it hadn’t snowed for a long time and conditions was good for climbing. But to acclimatize I first did some skitouring. On the 19. I climbed the Swiss route in the north face of Les Courtes. The conditions were good and I had tracks from another party on the snowy part of the the climb. The climb took me 2.15. I climbed with short approach skis on my backpack so I could ski down the Telèfre side and down to Chamonix.

The next days it was raining in town, but snowing up high. When it finally cleared I had some good days of skiing from Midi.

On the 23. I teamed up with Amandine and Cristophe for the Aig d´Argentier. Weather and conditions was perfect. We went up the normal route on the west side, but skied down on the east. From the Saleina glacier we went throw the Fenetre de Saleina and Col du Tour, before we finished a long day with lots of good skiing down to Le Tour.


Christophe skiing the east face (Barbey Couloir) of Argentier


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ICE Norway winter 2010

Me climbing last pitch of Hydne. Photo: Kristoffer SzilasThis ice conditions in Norway has been extraordinary this winter. All over southern Norway it was cold and stable temperatures from mid December to early March. In Romsdalen where I live the conditions has been OK on some of the classic lines. But due to the little snow and cold temperatures early in the season, the smaller streams witch makes the good alpine lines froze to early to make them climbable. But other places nearby, like Eikesdalen and Geiranger has seen a lot of first ascents. Unfortunately I’ve been a lot away for work and never made it to Geiranger this winter. But I’ve had some good climbing in Hemsedal, with some first ascent and I’ve got the chance to climb some of the bigger classic waterfalls that I’ve wanted to climb for a long time.

Below you can see pictures from some of the climbs.

Short movie from a wet day on Vettis. Credit: Bjørn-Eivind Aartun


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Hydne 2010-03-14Hemsedal and Hallingdalen was early known for its good ice climbing. Many waterfalls and a stable temperatures makes Hemsedal a good destination for a ice climbing adventure. Close to Hemsedal is fames “crags” such as Rjukandefoss and Golsjuvet wich offers super climbing with short approach. Big waterfalls like Hydnefossen  and Grøtnuten are long and serious climbs, but if conditions are good and you are a strong climber, we can do it together!

Hemsedal is also a good destination for skiing, either you want touring or off-pist skiing. A combination of ice climbing and skiing can make this a really memorable holiday.


Where: Hemsedal

When: Desember to medio March

Programs: I can arrange different programs that suites you’re level and desires.

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.

Price per day:

From NOK 3500,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)


Discount if booking 4 days or more


Questions or more info



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Arriving in Chalten


Finally I’ve made a post about my Patagonia trip.

In late November I traveled to Patagonia together with Trym A. Sæland and Sigurd Backe. We flew from Norway on Nov. 21. and arrived in Chalten to a short weather window. On the 24. we climbed Benitiers on El Mocho.

After that, one week of “Patagonia weather” forced us to stay in Chalten, mostly eating chocolate at the Chocolateria and drinking beer in the Cerveceria. But in early December the pressure was rising and we headed up the Torre valley, to Niponino again. On Des. 4 we climbed Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy, probably the best routes I have ever done! First 1000meters of snow- and ice, then 24 pitches of mix terrain up to grad 5.10. The weather was not to good in the morning, but it cleared and we had blue sky and some wind on the summit. The 500 meters of abseiling down Franco-Argentine was interesting, specially after it got dark.

After two rest days the weather was still good and we climbed the 800 meter long Clara de Luna on St. Exupery on Des. 8. Again, a superb route.

On a day with not so good weather, lots of wind and cold temperatures, we climbed Piola route on St. Rafael on Des 10.

On the 11. Sigurd and me teamed up with Lena Dahl and climbed the North ridge on De la S. Another fun day climbing.

Sigurd and me wanted to try to get one more climb before the weather turned bad again and tried Poincenot, but it was one day to late and we was turned back because of bad weather.

Some days later, Sigurd went home to Norway and Trym’s girlfriend arrived so I was more or less without a partner. But the weather forecast said two weeks of bad weather so it didn’t really matter. Instead I teamed up with Marco and Mario, two Swiss climbers I’ve met at the Cerveceria, for a roadtrip down south…


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Photo credit: Trym A. Sæland, Sigurd Backe and Nils Nielsen


IceRomsdalen is famous for it great rock climbing in summer, but in winter, the valley and surrounding mountain is a eldorado for ice and alpine climbing. With its many frozen waterfalls and high mountain alpine routes, you can chose from one pitch waterfalls to multiday alpine routes.

Do you want a winter ascent of the famous peaks Romsdalshorn or Vengetind, or maybe climb long and moderat waterfalls like Ølmåa or Kvernagrova? Or do you just want to experience the fun and wonders of ice climbing down in the valley? There is something for everyone!

Where: Romsdalen

When: November to medio March

Programs: I can arrange different programs that suites you’re level and desires. Contact me for more info!

Price per day:

From NOK 3500,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more



Routes: Halls-renne (normal route or direct)

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 1 or 2 day roundtrip

Best season: November

Difficulties: You should be a experienced climber and be used to climb with ice-axes and crampons. You should move fast on moderat terrain and have good endurance.

Ratio: Up to 2 clients on 1 guide.

If we haven’t climbed together before I would recommend a preparation climb/training day in advance of the climb. We get to know each other and we will be able to move faster and the chances of summiting will increase.

If we go for a one or two days ascent depend on your physical capacity and whether the road is open or not. The climb itself will only take one day.



A three day climbing adventure in Romsdalen. We can go alpine- or ice climbing, depending on conditions and your decires.

Contact me for more info aboute what to do.

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 3 days of climbing

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.



Do you have a special waterfall or mountain you want to climb in winter conditions? Or do you just want to climb in Romsdalen with a mountain guide. By hiring your own guide you have a unique opportunity to fully experience the mountain and the climbing by your own pace.

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: You decide

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.


Questions or more info


ICERjukan is maybe the most fames place in Norway for ice climbing, at least for foreigners. And with good reason! Lots of waterfalls concentrated around the small town, a cold and long winter season makes Rjukan the perfekt place for your ice climbing holiday. I offer guiding and courses on all levels on many of the 192(!!) waterfalls in the area.

Do you have a dream of climbing some of the classic waterfalls of the gorge of Rjukan, go iceclimbing with me. Trappfoss, Rjukanfossen, Nye Vemork, Sabbotørfossen, Juvsøyla and many more – you’re choice!

Where: Rjukan – Norway

When: Desember to medio March

Programs: I can arrange different programs that suites you’re level and desires.

Recommended accommodation: ClimbInn Rjukan

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.

Price per day:

From NOK 3500,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more

Questions or more info

Guiding ice in Hemsedal

Jan. 31.2010

Last two weeks I’ve been working in Hemsedal, mostly with ice climbing. First I had Torleif for three days, we climbed Grøtnuten, Haugsfossen and a long alpine ice route in Grøndalen. This weekend I had Gunnar and Moshe on a ice course. Very cold temperatures, but in the sun it was not to bad.


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Trym on a winter free ascent of DrømmediederetNov 17. 2009

Winter started early with great skiing in early October, but the rest of October and November has been mild and dry. This warm weather gave good conditions for alpine climbing up high. I’ve been lucky and have finally done some of the routes that been on my mind for a very long time. Here are some pictures from the last month climbing.

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Oct 14. 2009

After a long summer of guiding I finally got to do some climbing on my own. In late September Eiliv Ruud and I travelled to Chamonix in hope of good conditions on big alpine faces. But the temperature when we arrived gave better condition on south facing rock then on north facing ice. We had some good days on rock and got acclimatized at the same time. Standing on the summit of Tacul, after a ice-climb on the Triangle we thought we saw some ice in the east face of Maudit. Some days later we enjoyed good conditions on Roger Baxter-Jones Direct in the east face.

We hoped that the north face of Grand pilier d’Angle on Mont Blanc would be in. And we made the long hike over to Col Moore to find out that the face was in, but the rest of the approach looked very, very dangerous after the warm summer. We walked home.

In early October we hiked up the Leschaux glacier to the base of Grand Jorasses north face. The next day we climbed a combination of the Slovenian route and the Croz, giving a perfect combination of ice, snow and rock on a big and beautiful face. Because of the state of the south face and the fact that the Major of Courmayeur has “closed” the Italian side of Jorasses, we didn’t summit Pte Walker, the high-point of Jorasses. We abseiled straight down the south face from Pte Croz, avoiding the super-dangerous hanging glacier on the normal route descent. The whole thing was quite scary and keeping our attention all the way down. But 14 hours after we started climbing, we was drinking beer in a Italian bar…

Photo-credit: Eiliv Ruud and Nils Nielsen

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