Posts Tagged ‘Mont Blanc’

EN “LØPETUR” PÅ MONT BLANC

En fin dag på toppen av Mont Blanc

En fin dag på toppen av Mont Blanc

Jeg har lenge hatt lyst til å bestige Mont Blanc helt uten heis. Starte i dalen, gå til toppen for så å komme meg ned igjen for egen maskin. Og prøve å gjøre det ganske fort. Vel, alt er relativt. Kilian Jornet har rekorden fra Chamonix til toppen og ned igjen. 4t57m. Helt sykt!  I mitt tempo, på en vanlig dag, innimellom jobb og annen trening tenkte jeg at ca 8 timer ville være rimelig.

Etter en intensiv jobbperiode var jeg godt akklimatisert, men sliten. Etter noen dager i lavlandet følte jeg meg bedre, men hadde stilt inn hodet på hjemreise til Norge torsdag ettermiddag. På onsdag ettermiddag kom jeg derrimot på at jeg jeg kanskje skulle stikke på Mont Blanc neste morgen – skulle jo uansett være såpass rask at jeg burde klare å rekke det flyet. Jeg er så heldig å bo 40 meter fra der stien starter om man skal gå enkleste vei fra dalen og opp på Mont Blanc så jeg kjenner stiene godt og kunne ta turen helt på sparket. Det var ikke så mye som skulle pakkes heller akkurat. Jeg planla og starte i løpesko, shorts og t-skjorte og i sekken endte jeg med å pakke klær som var overraskende like de jeg bruker på en langrennstur hjemme på vinteren.
Det er ikke veldig vanlig – men langt i fra uvanlig – at folk bestiger Mont Blanc med lett utstyr, opp og ned fra dalen på kort tid. Kilian Jornet er den mest profilerte fjelløperen i verden og han gjør det “hele tiden” og da får det mye oppmerksomhet. Her er en liten sak på Aftenposten.no fra en tilsvarende tur noen andre Nordmenn gjorde for noen uker siden.

Chamonix dalen ligger på +/- 1000moh og Mont Blanc er 4810moh. Det gir 3800meter med stigning ++, det går litt opp og ned her og der også så noen høydemeter ekstra må man regne med. Rundt 4000høydemeter er egentlig ikke så avskrekkende, det har jeg gjort mange ganger før, men det at veldig mange av de gjøres i høy høyde gjør det hele til “a different ballgame”, som vi sier hjemme på Hadeland. Og når høydemeterne opp er unnagjort skal du ned igjen.
Uansett. Jeg starter litt før kl 0600 (hadde jo det flyet jeg måtte rekke) og brukte akkurat 5 timer opp. Eller 5t og 2min for å være eksakt. På den tiden hadde Kilian både rukket å få igjen pusten og å signert en god del autografer nede i Chamonix.
Det sies at man løper på Mont Blanc når man gjør det på denne måten. Jeg GIKK. Gikk fort med staver, i hvert fall 95% av turen opp. Ned igjen løp jeg mesteparten, i hver fall det som er løpbart. Da jeg kom ned igjen rakk jeg både dusj, klesvask, take-away pizza fra naboen og en liten blund før jeg måtte sette meg i bilen og kjøre til Geneve. Glemte å henge opp vasken. Pokker!
Suunto Ambit’en min oppsummerte det hele med: 29km, 4200høydemeter opp og ned (det høres litt mye ut), snittpuls på 146bpm og total tid på 7t46min fra dør-til dør. Maksimal recovery time sa den også 😉

Så, mange synes sikkert det er idioti å tilnærme seg Europas høyeste fjell på denne måten. Livsfarlig idioti! Jeg er helt enig – det er livsfarlig idioti og tilnærme seg Mont Blanc på denne måten hvis du ikke vet hva du går til. Det er livsfarlig idioti å tilnærme seg Mont Blanc i det hele tatt hvis du ikke vet noe om hva du kan forvente deg. Jeg viste akkurat hva jeg møtte. Jeg har gått ruta mange, mange ganger og jeg viste akkurat hvordan forholdene var. Jeg vet akkurat hvordan jeg reagerer på høyden og jeg viste at dette var langt, langt innenfor det jeg kan gjøre. The more you know, the less you need, som det heter. Jeg tørr faktisk påstå at veldig, veldig mye av det som foregår på Mont Blanc er mye farligere enn dette – nettopp fordi folk ikke vet hva de går til og de vet ikke hva som er farlig å ikke. (Dere vil ikke tro hvor mye rart man ser på det fjellet).

Nok om det. Jeg var uansett temmelig stiv i beina da jeg gikk av flyet på Gardermoen samme kveld.

Joggesko på Mont Blanc

Joggesko på Mont Blanc

Turen fra Les Houches til Mont Blanc kjapt oppsummert

Turen fra Les Houches til Mont Blanc kjapt oppsummert


GUIDING FRENDO SPUR AND OTHER THINGS IN CHAMONIX

Since start of September I’ve been in Chamonix, mostly working. The weather has been good except of the days when I’ve not been working.
I had two regular clients, Erik and Richart, for 8 days in start of September. We did various things, but the most memorable was guiding Frendo Spur in the north face of Aiguille du Midi with Erik. Frendo is a bit bigger objective than what I usually guide, but with a regular client that I knew well, it did not fell that big. We had good conditions and used 8h30 from Refuge Plan du Aiguille to the top, 7h on the route. The other days was varied with rock climbing in the sun in Aiguilles Rouges, a day on Aiguille du Moine and two days on the Tacul Triangle.
Except of the guiding I’ve not done much in the mountains, theres been some rock climbing (and ice cream eating) in Italy and trail running in Chamonix. Now I’ll have a week in Norway before I go down to France again to spend most of October there.

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GUIDING MATTERHORN

The day after summiting Matterhorn with Karine I started a new 5-day Matterhorn program with Ståle. The first day we climbing on the south face of Riffelhorn before we walked over to Hotel Flualp at 2620m. The next morning we hoped to climb Rimpfischhorn (4199m). We started in rain at night and the weather did not look to promising, but it was not to bad either. We summited in some wind, but on the descent it started snowing and the wind increased. It continued to snow/rain for the rest of the day and night. On day 3 we planed to do the full Breithorn traverse, but after all the snowfall the previous day we ended up doing only the half-traverse. On day 4 we walked up to the Hörnli hut, the weather was good and the hut was full. The next day it was a really busy day on Matterhorn. Conditions was good, but we had to wear crampons from approximately 3850m. We summited quite early and did not meet the worst queue before we were on the fixed ropes on the descent. Below are some pictures from the whole week.

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GUIDING IN CHAMONIX AND MATTERHORN

The last weeks I’ve been in the Alps guiding. From July 21.-26. I was guiding Karine on a Matterhorn program. First we had 4 beautiful days i Chamonix doing Aiguille du Moine, the Midi-Plan Traverse and the Cosmique Ridge. Then we traveled to Switzerland and Zermatt. There we walked up to the Hörnli Hut and on July 26. we climbed Matterhorn. It was a good day on Matterhorn, weather was perfect, conditions were quite good and it was not to much people. Below are some pictures from the whole week.

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HAUTE ROUTE AND ZERMATT GUIDING

Since last blog update I’ve been busy. On March 17. I started in what has become the worlds biggest cross-country ski race – Birkebeineren. It was 11 years since my last ski race so I did not have to high goals, except to beat most of my old training buddies from Gran. The race is 54km, my skies was not the best for the first half, but they got better for the last half. I finished as 141 of around 16.000, not to bad for a mountain guide. But most important, I was faster than my friends from Gran :)
On the 18. I traveled to Chamonix to start guiding in the Alps the day after. Of course, one of my bags was delayed. All my ski gear was missing and I had a stressful day and night to get ready for Haute Route. Never book your flights through Copenhagen with less than one and a half hour for transit. It seams like thats the minimum it takes for the Copenhagen airport to move bags from one plane to another. I’ve had my bags delayed there once before and have had many clients who did not get they’re bags either.

Haute Route was fun, great clients and both weather and skiing was good. The first day we had heavy snowfall, but after that, mostly blue sky, no wind and warm for being March. We did the Verbier route, conditions in general is better than at the same time last year. But if this warm temperatures continues, the snow in south and west facing aspects will not last much longer.
After Haute Route I had one rest day in Zermatt before I started guiding again. The weather was still good and I wanted to get to know the area between Saas Fee and Zermatt better. I’m having a 6-days program there in easter. So, early in the morning I got on the first train to Saas Fee. First I climbed Allalinhorn, a 4000meter peak that is easy accessible from the ski lift. After that I climbed the ridge over to Feechopf and down to Alphubeljoch. Then I skied down to the Mellich-gletscher and up to Allalinpass, down to Allalin-gletscher and up to Adlerpass and down to Zermatt. A perfect day, but not exactly a rest day.

The next day I started a 3-days guiding around Zermatt. We had various planes, but because of some sickness we ended up doing something completely different from everything we had planed.
The first day we skied to the Monte Rosa hut, this was my first time at the new hut and it was almost better than I’ve been told. Day two, we climbed towards Dufourspitze, but had no plans about summiting. We turned around just above 4000meters and skied down to the hut. On north facing aspects we could still find good snow. The last day we skied down to Furi and took the lift to Kl Matterhorn. From there we climbed Breithorn and skied down the Swartztor gletscher – Zermatt’s Valle Blanch – before traveled back to Chamonix.

Today is a big organizing day before I start guiding again the next 9 days. I needed to get an look at conditions here so in the morning I went for a quick ski in the Aiguilles Rouges.

Below is a few pictures from the last 11 days.
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GUIDING SKI IN CHAMONIX

Recently I bought a small apartment  in Chamonix. I still plan to have Romsdalen and Norway as my home, but the apartment makes it a lot easier for me to work and spend time in the alpine capital. So I hope to spend more time her both in summer and winter.

So the last weeks I’ve been in Chamonix, mostly guiding ski. I had planed to do some climbing on my days off, but both weather and conditions has been best for skiing. It’s actually been really good for skiing.
I’ve not taken many pictures, but below you can se a few. Most are from working with the Norwegian students at Active Education.

 


ALPS SUMMER 2011

Sunrise on summit of Mont Blanc. We are already on the way down

The last three weeks I’ve been guiding in the Alps. First in Chamonix with two 6 days Mont Blanc programs. Then I moved to Zermatt to guide Matterhorn. Unfortunately I did not get any climbing done on my own. The weather and conditions were really good for most of my stay, but it was raining hard on all my days off. Below is pictures from acclimatization on both Mont Blanc weeks and from summit days on Mont Blanc and Matterhorn. First time on Matterhorn we started from Tête Rousse hut and climbed the Goûter route up and The Three Monts route down. The second time, we also did the traverse, but this time starting from Cosmiques Hut and climbed Three Monts up and Goûter down. On Matterhorn we climbed Hornli both up and down.

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PRIVAT GUIDING – CUSTUM CLIMBS IN THE ALPS

Situated in the middle of Europe, there’s no where else in the world where you have so easy access to spectacular mountains. The Alps is said to be the birthplace of modern mountaineering and alpinism, and it offers easy routes for beginners and steeper, longer and more demanding routes for highly skilled mountaineers. And everything in between.
Do you have special route or mountain you want to climb? Or do you just want to climb and experience the mountains with a private guide? The Alps is a perfect place to experience and learn more about mountaineering. The lifts and the huts makes access easy and we can travel with light backpacks and focus on the climbing.
For most climbs in the Alps you need at least 1 or 2 days of acclimatization before the routes, and for the bigger routes on the highest peaks you should have 3-4 days. On this days we do interesting climbs that prepare us for the route we’re aboute to climb.

Below you can see a list of peaks and routes from different areas. The list shows just some of the routes I guide, please contact me if you want more information. I customize programs for you!

Mont Blanc Range – France:
Mont Blanc – Normal routes, Bionnassay or Innominata Route (from Italy)
Mont Maudit – Normal Route or Kuffner ridge
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Aiguille Du Midi – Cosmiques Ridge or Frendo Spur
Dent du Geant
Aiguille de Rochefort – Rochefort Ridge
Tour Ronde – North face, Gervasitti or South ridge
Midi-Plan Traverse
Aiguille du Chardonnet – Forbes Ridge
Aiguille Verte – Whymper Couloir (south) or Couturier (north)
Les Courtes – Travers
Grandes Jorasses – Traverse or Normal route

Wallis/Vallee – Switzerland:
Matterhorn – Hörnli Ridge or Zmutt Ridge
Monte Rosa – Normal Route
Weissmies – Normal Route or South Ridge(Traverse)
Breithorn – Normal Route or Half/Full traverse
Pollux
Castor
Weisshorn

Berner Oberland – Switzerland
Eiger – Mittellegi or South ridge
Mönch – Southeast or Southwest Ridge
Jungfrau – Normal route

Bernina/Engadine – Switzerland
Piz Badile – North Ridge or North Face (Cassin)
Piz Bernina – Biancograt
Piz Palu
Piz Morteratsch
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Duration: You decide 
When: June to end of September
Difficulties: All levels
Ratio: 1:1 or 2:1 depending on route

Price from: 
NOK 3.500,- per person pr day
(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide, all expenses for your guide and climbing equipment)

BOOKING OR MORE INFO


CHAMONIX SKIING WITH GUIDE

Chamonix and the surrounding mountains can offer some of the best skiing in the world, both the off-piste skiing and the ski touring is fantastic. The easy access, the spectacular soundings, the good ski terrain and great snow makes Chamonix a place you have to visit. But the same reasons also makes Chamonix a very busy place and it can be hard to find good snow and with all the glaciered terrain and avalanche risk you have to be careful. Hiring a guide for some days or for your whole stay can be smart thing to do, helping you to get a safe and enjoyable skiing.
I can arrange everything from one day of lift accessed skiing to multiple days of ski touring in the Chamonix area. To combine off-piste skiing with ski touring is often the best and what gives you the best snow.

Suggestions:
Below is just suggestions and most likely will we end up doing it in different order or maybe doing something completely different. To find good snow will always be top priority!

Three days off-piste skiing:
DAY 1: Le Tour
DAY 2: Les Grande Montets
DAY 3: L´Aiguille du Midi and Vallee Blanche

Three days of ski touring:
DAY 1: Aiguilles Rouges to Le Buet
DAY 2: L´Aiguille du Midi, ski tour to Italy and then ski Vallee Blanche back
DAY 3. Argentiére basin which has a lot of options

Where: Chamonix 
Duration: You decide
When: Mid December to end of April
Difficulties: All levels
Ratio: Max 6 clients on 1 guide
Price from: 
NOK 3.500 a day
(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all expenses for your guide)

BOOKING OR MORE INFO


Guiding Mont Blanc

On the Bosses ridge with the shadow of Mont Blanc behindSept 17. 2010

On September 4.-9. I had two Norwegians for a 6 days Mont Blanc program through my company Breogfjell. We acclimatized in the Aiguille du Tour area in perfect weather. But on the 4. day it started to snow and rain and the forcast for the summit day didn’t look to good. We considered different alternatives, but the weather looked bad for most of the central Alpes so we decided to try Mont Blanc. We walked to Tete Rousse hut on day 5 and started at nigth from there in light snowfall. Everything went as planed, the weather just got better and we toped out around 09.00 as first party that day.

 

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GUIDING AND CLIMBING IN ALPES

Per Magne on GrandCapucin

Sept 4.2010

After a summer with two much work in Norway I traveled to the Alpes on August 8. for some work and hopefully some climbing on my own. First I traveled to Valais to do a couple of recognition climbs for guiding later in the month. Then I traveled to Chamonix to climb for a week with Trym. But the day Trym arrived it started to rain in town and snow up high and the forecast said it would be like that for 4 days all over the Central Alpes. We packed rope and quickdraws, and together with some friends left Cham and drove down to Ceüse. There, the weather was better but for a mountain guide who mainly been walking and climbing grade 3 all summer, everything but the approach felt very steep.

When weather looked better for the Alpes we went back to Chamonix, there it had snowed  around 50 cm at 3000 meters, but after some days of good weather we hoped that it had melted enough and headed up to the Enveres hut. But we were to early and everything was still wet. Trym went home and the last day before I started working I teamed up with Ole Kristian and Steinar for a day at the south face of Midi. Weather was not very good, light snowfall at times and forecast said thunderstorm in early afternoon so we did Rebuffat to be sure to get up before the weather came. All of us had done the route before, but it was nice to finally do some climbing in the mountains and we had a very fun day, specially at the belays…

On August 21. I started a 6 days Matterhorn program with two Norwegians – Tone and Knut Johan Stenerud. First we had three days in Saastal with some rock climbing on Dri Horlini and a ascent of Weissmies (4017m). In the afternoon on the third day we traveled to Zermatt, there we did Breithorn (4164m) the next day. All week it was very uncertain about how conditions would be on Matterhorn. The big snowfall a week earlier had left around 60cm of snow at the Hörnli hut and a lot more on the mountain. It was melting every day, but we didn’t know if it would be enough. But with the good weather forecast we decided to try. On Matterhorn the guide:client ratio is 1:1 so Rok Zalokar, my Slovenian friend and guide joined us for the ascent. I started early from Zermatt on the 25. to climb a little higher then the Hörnli to check out conditions. I turned back at the Shoulder at 4200m, up to there conditions were good but above it looked like it was a lot of snow. As always on the Hörnli hut, “breakfast” is served at 04.00 and all guided parties start at 04.20. The ascent went OK, some queuing the first hour and the normal chaos on the fixed ropes up high. We summited 08.30 in blue sky and perfect weather. On the descent it was even more chaos than on the ascent but below the Shoulder everything went smoothly and we were at the hut again before 13.00.

After Matterhorn I traveled back Chamonix for some climbing in the mountains. But the weather was not the best and I just ended up rock climbing close to Sallanches and in Italy. When it finally cleared again Per Magne and I had two great days on the granite. The first day we climbed on the south face of Pointe Lachenal and the next day we wanted to try Grand Capucin. Capucin is not a very high summit, but on of the most impressing granite towers in the Mont Blanc massif. The 400 meter high east face has the most challenging routes, we climbed a combination of Voie des Suisses and O Sole Mio on the South face, mostly grade 5 with some pitches of 6. It was for sure on of my best days of rock climbing in the Alpes! Now I start 6 days of work in Chamonix and we hope to climb Mont Blanc.

 

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END OF WINTER

HauteRoute 2010 04 19-24 2010-04-20On April 19. I started guiding my third and last Haute Route for the season, Also this time for my company, Breogfjell. We had a good week with warm temperatures and very stable snow conditions. In combination with very good client this gave me a quite easy week of work. But we had a very hard time finding good snow.

After Haute Route I returned home to Romsdalen for some ski guiding there before I went to Turtagrø and Highcamp. Breogfjell is responsible for all the guiding there and we had 20 guides on work May 7.-9. Weather was perfect and cold temperatures gave good conditions for skiing.

Next week I guided Karine for three days home in Romsdalen. The first day we did Hesteskotraversen in perfect conditions, cold in the morning and good slush down from Kirketaket in the afternoon. The next day we did Juratind. Warmer temperatures during the night gave very loose snow all the way to the top and down again, but it wasn’t to bad. The last day we did Skjervan from the east. We could drive quite high and had perfect weather and OK snow.

After a long winter it was very good to finally put away the skis and start rock climbing. And as always after a winter with to much guiding and alpine climbing, the first days on rock felt terrible for my fingers.

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HAUTE ROUTE – Ski Chamonix to Zermatt with guide

For many reasons, the classic ski tour from Chamonix to Zermatt has become one of the best known skitours in the world. Traveling from one one historic town to the next, it takes you into the heart of the Alps and into some amazing alpine terrain. You ski through high cols, hidden valleys, high peaks and spectacular glaciers. And the complex hut system in the Alps makes it possible to travel light and comfortable. No matter how much skiing you have done and how many places you have visited – Haute Route will be a unique experience.

 

Alternatives:
There is also a lot of other Haute Routes (high routes) in the Alps. But the Chamonix-Zermatt is the most famous and most popular and is often synonym to Haute Route. The Verbier variant is the easiest and most popular of this, but the the Original route is more challenging and spectacular, traveling the Plateau Couloir and visiting the Valsorey hut. Or you can do other different variants to the Chamonix-Zermatt tour. and you can also add some extra days after arriving in Zermatt, either ski to Saas Fee or ascend the summit of Breithorn or Monte Rosa.
And if you want to do a ski tour in other places in the Alps, such as Berner Oberland, Silveretta or other places, please let me know.

Where: Chamonix to Zermatt 
Duration: 5 or 6 days 
When: March to end of April
Routes: The Verbier Route or the Classic route via Valsorey Hut.
Difficulties: You should be used to ski in varied terrain, both up and down. Haute Route is never very difficult or very hard, but it still requires that you are an intermediate skier and that you are used to ski with a heavy (10-12kg) backpack.
If you are not sure if you got what it takes I recommend a training tour in Norway or the Alps in advance.
Gear: You need normal ski touring gear that are not to heavy.
Telemark gear works but alpine touring gear is much better. Snowboard or Splitboard
are not made for Haute Route! You will get a complete gear list when booking.
Ratio: 6:1 on the Verbier route and 4:1 on the Classic route

Price from: 
NOK 5500,- per person for 5 days
(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all expenses for your guide)

BOOKING OR MORE INFO

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MONT BLANC MED NORSK FØRER


Og stå på toppen av Mont Blanc, Vest-Europas høyeste fjell, i finvær, en tidlig morgen. DET er en fantastisk opplevelse.


Mont Blanc er med sine 4810meter det høyeste fjellet i Vest-Europa. Siden det ligger midt i Europa og er så lett tilgjengelig, er Mont Blanc for mange det før møtet med høye fjell. På de to normalrutene er ikke de tekniske vanskelighetene spesielt store og man trenger ikke klatreerfaring om man går med fører, men Mont Blanc skal ikke undervurderes alikevel. Fjellet er nesten 5000meter høyt og uansett hvilke rute du velger må du inn i komplekst terreng med svært oppprekte breer og utglidningsfare. God akklimatisering er essensielt, i hvert fall om du ønsker å sitte igjen med en positiv opplevelse av turen.

På vei opp Bosses ryggen på Mont Blanc

Vi kjører primært 3-, 5- eller 6-dagers program for Mont Blanc. 3-dagers forutsetter at du akklimatiserer litt på egenhånd først. 5-dagers program holder ofte om vær, føre og form klaffer, men med 6 dager har man litt mer og spille på og større sjans for å nå toppen. Da har man en deg ekstra for å hvile, akklimatisere mer eller vente på bedre vær og forhold.
Vi kan selvfølgelig lage både kortere og lengre program om det er ønskelig.

Utgangspunkt: Chamonix
Varighet: 3-6 dager
Når: Juni til tidlig oktober. September er vår favoritt.
Vanskelighetsgrad: Mont Blanc er aldri teknisk vanskelig, men du må være vant til å ferdes i fjellet og være i god fysisk form.
Antall gjester: Opp til 2 gjester pr fører på Mont Blanc, men vi kan kjøre opp til 4 gjester pr fører på akklimatisering.
Pris: 11.250NOK pr pers for 5 dager med 2 personer.
Prisen inkluderer fører og alle hans kostnader. Dine reisekostnader og kostnader på hytter kommer i tillegg.

Fornøyde gjester og fører på toppen av Mont Blanc


ALPINE CLIMBING CHAMONIX

Oct 14. 2009

After a long summer of guiding I finally got to do some climbing on my own. In late September Eiliv Ruud and I travelled to Chamonix in hope of good conditions on big alpine faces. But the temperature when we arrived gave better condition on south facing rock then on north facing ice. We had some good days on rock and got acclimatized at the same time. Standing on the summit of Tacul, after a ice-climb on the Triangle we thought we saw some ice in the east face of Maudit. Some days later we enjoyed good conditions on Roger Baxter-Jones Direct in the east face.

We hoped that the north face of Grand pilier d’Angle on Mont Blanc would be in. And we made the long hike over to Col Moore to find out that the face was in, but the rest of the approach looked very, very dangerous after the warm summer. We walked home.

In early October we hiked up the Leschaux glacier to the base of Grand Jorasses north face. The next day we climbed a combination of the Slovenian route and the Croz, giving a perfect combination of ice, snow and rock on a big and beautiful face. Because of the state of the south face and the fact that the Major of Courmayeur has “closed” the Italian side of Jorasses, we didn’t summit Pte Walker, the high-point of Jorasses. We abseiled straight down the south face from Pte Croz, avoiding the super-dangerous hanging glacier on the normal route descent. The whole thing was quite scary and keeping our attention all the way down. But 14 hours after we started climbing, we was drinking beer in a Italian bar…

Photo-credit: Eiliv Ruud and Nils Nielsen

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