Posts Tagged ‘Norge’

GREAT START FOR SKI TOURING SEASON IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

In late October we had one BIG snow dump on the west-coast followed by nice weather. Below is some pictures from 3 amazing days of October skiing. After that it’s been variable temperatures and weather so the skiing was not great for long, but we had som nice days in between.

 


CLIMBING COURSE AND GUIDING IN HURRUNGANE

 

A few pictures from the last two weeks of work. Two weeks with climbing course with the Norwegian military academy in Hemsedal and guiding in Hurrungane in the weekends.

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NORTIND CLIMBING COURSE

Last week I was one of the instructor on a climbing course for NORTIND – the Norwegian IFMGA guide scheme.  We had a varied week with some rescue training a lot of theory around personality and leadership, but mostly we were climbing. We did routes on Bispen, Vengetind, Romsdalshorn and Klaua and we also did some sport climbing and bouldering.

Below is some pictures.

 


NORTIND GLACIER COURSE

On May 3rd til 10th I was in Jostedalen in Sogn working with the guide-training for NORTIND (Norske Tindevegledere). NORTIND is the Norwegian mountain guide association and we educate guides to become IFMGA/UIAGM/IVBV certified guide. This was a glacier course for the group who started in 2011. Andreas Haslestad, Jostein AAsen and I was the instructors.
Learn more about NORTIND here.

Below is pictures from a week on the glacier. After all, glacier is not so bad when the weather is good.

Highcamp Turtagrø, guiding the Norwegian Crown Prince and powder in Romsdalen

First week of May is normally the busiest week of the year for me, and this year was no exception. Together with the rest of Breogfjell, I organize all the guided tours and courses on Friflyt’s Highcamp at Turtagrø. That means 21 guides and around 150 clients in the mountains for three days.
I traveled to Turtagrø on monday 30. to find out about snow and glacier conditions on most of the mountains we planed to use during the camp. I did a lot of nice tours on my own the first days, going with light gear and visiting many peaks every day. The weather was much better than the skiing…
The camp was as usual super busy, more than 500 people in total. This year the Norwegian Crown Prince visited the camp. He has always been a dedicated telemarker, but this was his first time skiing in Hurrungane. I had the privilege to guide him for two days, witch was a fun experience. Saturday we had really nice weather in the morning and the snow was good. Saturday the weather was not so good, but we found some good snow.

Now I’m finally back in Romsdalen after a long winter with a lot of traveling. I don’t have much plans for May except to ski and climb as much as possible. The start has been good, skiing powder in the morning and climbing in the afternoon. Thursday 10. was a perfect day, cold in the morning and sunny. It was the fourth day with nice weather and still no tracks on the north-ridge of Vengetind. I did not expect to find good snow, but wanted to ski Vengetind anyway. The snow on the upper ridge was much better than expected and on the top I was super psyched about the descent. But I soon realized that one of the bindings was broken. FU$#!!! I had borrowed a pair of demoski (brand is unknown…) and had not bother to check if it was working as it should. So I had to walk most of the way down again, not fun!

Espen Kristiansen from Friflyt/Field Productions made a small video from one of the days I skied with Crown Prince Haakon. Here it is:

Here’s a article and some pictures from Friflyt.no

And belowe is some pictures from Highcamp and skiing in Romsdalen last week


HAUTE ROUTE AND ZERMATT GUIDING

Since last blog update I’ve been busy. On March 17. I started in what has become the worlds biggest cross-country ski race – Birkebeineren. It was 11 years since my last ski race so I did not have to high goals, except to beat most of my old training buddies from Gran. The race is 54km, my skies was not the best for the first half, but they got better for the last half. I finished as 141 of around 16.000, not to bad for a mountain guide. But most important, I was faster than my friends from Gran :)
On the 18. I traveled to Chamonix to start guiding in the Alps the day after. Of course, one of my bags was delayed. All my ski gear was missing and I had a stressful day and night to get ready for Haute Route. Never book your flights through Copenhagen with less than one and a half hour for transit. It seams like thats the minimum it takes for the Copenhagen airport to move bags from one plane to another. I’ve had my bags delayed there once before and have had many clients who did not get they’re bags either.

Haute Route was fun, great clients and both weather and skiing was good. The first day we had heavy snowfall, but after that, mostly blue sky, no wind and warm for being March. We did the Verbier route, conditions in general is better than at the same time last year. But if this warm temperatures continues, the snow in south and west facing aspects will not last much longer.
After Haute Route I had one rest day in Zermatt before I started guiding again. The weather was still good and I wanted to get to know the area between Saas Fee and Zermatt better. I’m having a 6-days program there in easter. So, early in the morning I got on the first train to Saas Fee. First I climbed Allalinhorn, a 4000meter peak that is easy accessible from the ski lift. After that I climbed the ridge over to Feechopf and down to Alphubeljoch. Then I skied down to the Mellich-gletscher and up to Allalinpass, down to Allalin-gletscher and up to Adlerpass and down to Zermatt. A perfect day, but not exactly a rest day.

The next day I started a 3-days guiding around Zermatt. We had various planes, but because of some sickness we ended up doing something completely different from everything we had planed.
The first day we skied to the Monte Rosa hut, this was my first time at the new hut and it was almost better than I’ve been told. Day two, we climbed towards Dufourspitze, but had no plans about summiting. We turned around just above 4000meters and skied down to the hut. On north facing aspects we could still find good snow. The last day we skied down to Furi and took the lift to Kl Matterhorn. From there we climbed Breithorn and skied down the Swartztor gletscher – Zermatt’s Valle Blanch – before traveled back to Chamonix.

Today is a big organizing day before I start guiding again the next 9 days. I needed to get an look at conditions here so in the morning I went for a quick ski in the Aiguilles Rouges.

Below is a few pictures from the last 11 days.
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Alpine ski touring course in Romsdalen

Last week I had a 5 days alpine ski touring course in Romsdalen. The weather as not the best even though we had a few days of sun-shine, but rain and a lot of wind most days. Obviously, the snow was not the best either, everything from super hard crust to slush. Well, not everything between, we did not have any powder.
But it was 5 fun days in the mountains with Hilde, Pernille, Mikkel and Petter.

Below is a few pictures

 


MORE SKIING

Here’s a few pictures from skiing in Romsdalen and Sogndal before and after Christmas. Most of December was spent in Romsdalen, some alpine skitouring and some cross country skiing. Then I was in Sogndal the first week after new year. I’s been snowing a lot on the west coast and the skiing has been amazing the last week. Unfortunately I haven’t taken many pictures, but here’s a few.

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FINALLY SNOW AND SKI IN ROMSDALEN

After a very warm and dry November be finally had a big snowfall on the west coast of Norway. In Romsdalen we got almost one meter of snow in the mountains last weekend. Unfortunately it came with a lot of wind, but it’s still possible to find very good snow in south and east facing bowls. Here’s a few pictures from skiing on Skarven in Skorgedalen.

 

 

 

 


PLAN CHANGED!

For various reasons I haven’t updated this blog for a long time. I wish I could say it’s because I’ve been busy climbing, because that was the plan. But the truth is that I haven’t done any climbing at all the last two months. Things does’t always go as planed even if everything is perfectly planed. And there was a perfect plan. At least what I consider a perfect plan. I was almost finished working for the summer and was looking forward to three and a half months of climbing and later some skiing. Norway, England, Alps, Patagonia and then Norway again. But the plan changed!
In early September I started to feel pain in my left knee. To make a long story short, I’ve got a runners knee. Nothing serious, but as long as I can’t run or walk long downhill descents it very serious for me. And then, being in Chamonix some weeks later, planing to climb some cool alpine routes, we changed the plan and went to Arco for rock climbing instead. And there, on the first route the very first day it said SNAP in my left middle finger. It hurt a lot and the finger got swollen immediately. Fu$&!! And the worst thing, it was on a really easy route, I had been warming up on much harder routes home in Norway the weeks before. But that didn’t help, I still got a pulley rupture.
Back in Norway some days later the knee was still hurting and I decided not to go to Patagonia. Feeling really bad, mostly because I left Trym without a partner, but also because I really had been looking forward to climb with Trym again and to do it in the coolest mountains on this planet.
So what have I been doing? Not much. Going to a physiotherapist every week. Easy training for my knee and surrounding muscles. And stretching. A lot of stretching. And I’ve worked really hard to be something that I’m not – patient. And it helps – slowly I’m getting better.

Below is a few pictures from Lofoten and in Peak District in September. I was in Lofoten for 10 days, being one of the instructors for the rock-climbing course in the Norwegian guide training program (NORTIND). Working on this courses is really fun and interesting work. After Lofoten I traveled directly to Peak District in England for a few days to visit my sponsor RAB and to climb on Gritstone.

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SUMMER IS WORK

Jens Stoltenberg and me on Romsdalshorn

 

Long time since last post so here’s a short update. After I came home from Alaska I’ve been working in the western part of Norway. Mostly guiding and some climbing courses; in Hurrungane and Romsdalen. My most memorable day was in mid July when I guided the Norwegian Prime Minister, Jens Stoltenberg, to the summit of Romsdalshorn. It was a beautiful day, clouds down low and perfect blue sky up high. The Prime Minister was impressively fit and climbed well for being such a busy man.

Recently I’ve been working with the Norwegain military academy in Hemsedal, teaching them how to climb. In between two courses with them I had four good days in Hurrungane, guiding long ridge traverses. Doing Skagastølsryggen, Smørstabbtraversen and Austadbotntindtraversen x 2 in four days made me really tired, specially since it was the rest days in between the work withe the army. But guiding 1:1 with fit clients on nice climbs like this is fun and I really enjoyed it.

Now I have two days off and I fly to the Alps tomorrow – guiding Mont Blanc and Matterhorn, but hopefully, also a climb or two on my own.


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WORK AND SOME FUN

Bjørn Kruse on Kjørlifossen


January and first part of February I’ve been in Norway. Working quite a bit, but also been skiing and climbing with friends. I’ve had to nice weekends skiing with clients in Romsdalen, the rest of the time I’ve been in the eastern parts of Norway – Rjukan, Hemsedal and Lærdal for ice climbing – mostly work. Below you can see some pictures from the ice climbing.

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GUIDING IN HURRUNGANE AND ROMSDALEN

Above the clouds on Storen 2010-07-04After alpine climbing and skiing a lot this winter and spring it was nice to have three weeks off from guiding in late May and early June. I was rock climbing most of the time, first in the in eastern part of Norway, then Bohuslan and a short trip to Peak District in England to try out the grit stone.

But the last three weeks I’ve been guiding in Norway. Mostly in Romsdalen, but I also had ten days at Turtagrø, guiding in Hurrungane. Both places still had a lot of snow with was both both good and bad. Hard trail braking on the way up, but good for the knees and efficiency on the way down.

In Hurrungane I had two long trips in beautiful weather on Styggedalsryggen, Sentraltind, Vesle Skagastølstind before finishing on Store Skagastølstind. Lots of  snow, both old and fresh, made both trips interesting with almost winter conditions on some of the climbing. Here’s some pictures, also from trips to Storen in Hurrungane and Romsdalshorn in Romsdalen.

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END OF WINTER

HauteRoute 2010 04 19-24 2010-04-20On April 19. I started guiding my third and last Haute Route for the season, Also this time for my company, Breogfjell. We had a good week with warm temperatures and very stable snow conditions. In combination with very good client this gave me a quite easy week of work. But we had a very hard time finding good snow.

After Haute Route I returned home to Romsdalen for some ski guiding there before I went to Turtagrø and Highcamp. Breogfjell is responsible for all the guiding there and we had 20 guides on work May 7.-9. Weather was perfect and cold temperatures gave good conditions for skiing.

Next week I guided Karine for three days home in Romsdalen. The first day we did Hesteskotraversen in perfect conditions, cold in the morning and good slush down from Kirketaket in the afternoon. The next day we did Juratind. Warmer temperatures during the night gave very loose snow all the way to the top and down again, but it wasn’t to bad. The last day we did Skjervan from the east. We could drive quite high and had perfect weather and OK snow.

After a long winter it was very good to finally put away the skis and start rock climbing. And as always after a winter with to much guiding and alpine climbing, the first days on rock felt terrible for my fingers.

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ICE Norway winter 2010

Me climbing last pitch of Hydne. Photo: Kristoffer SzilasThis ice conditions in Norway has been extraordinary this winter. All over southern Norway it was cold and stable temperatures from mid December to early March. In Romsdalen where I live the conditions has been OK on some of the classic lines. But due to the little snow and cold temperatures early in the season, the smaller streams witch makes the good alpine lines froze to early to make them climbable. But other places nearby, like Eikesdalen and Geiranger has seen a lot of first ascents. Unfortunately I’ve been a lot away for work and never made it to Geiranger this winter. But I’ve had some good climbing in Hemsedal, with some first ascent and I’ve got the chance to climb some of the bigger classic waterfalls that I’ve wanted to climb for a long time.

Below you can see pictures from some of the climbs.

Short movie from a wet day on Vettis. Credit: Bjørn-Eivind Aartun

 

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In the ARMY

KS2010 2010-03-08Mar.11.2010

The last two weeks I’ve been working with the Norwegian army in Setesdalsheiene in the southern part of Norway. I’ve been with Hærens Krigsskole (Military Academy) and its been normal winter courses based on Nils Faarlund’s and Norges Høgfjellsskole’s philosophy.

We had very good weather both weeks, cold and stable temperatures with little or no wind. Even though it’s been two weeks of work the day’s was never hard and it felt more or less like recreation, at least for the body. Setesdalsheiene has Norways most southern population of wild rain deer and we was lucky and met them many times. We believed that we once counted around 400, but it’s hard to tell.

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ICE CLIMBING WITH GUIDE IN HEMSEDAL – NORWAY

Hydne 2010-03-14Hemsedal and Hallingdalen was early known for its good ice climbing. Many waterfalls and a stable temperatures makes Hemsedal a good destination for a ice climbing adventure. Close to Hemsedal is fames “crags” such as Rjukandefoss and Golsjuvet wich offers super climbing with short approach. Big waterfalls like Hydnefossen  and Grøtnuten are long and serious climbs, but if conditions are good and you are a strong climber, we can do it together!

Hemsedal is also a good destination for skiing, either you want touring or off-pist skiing. A combination of ice climbing and skiing can make this a really memorable holiday.

 

Where: Hemsedal

When: Desember to medio March

Programs: I can arrange different programs that suites you’re level and desires.

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.

Price per day:

From NOK 3500,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

 

Discount if booking 4 days or more

 

Questions or more info

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More skiing in Romsdalen

SøreKlauva 2010-02-09

Feb. 15. 2010

Since I came back to Romsdalen in early February skiing has been very good. It’s been snowing a lot, but in between its been sunny and perfect days for skitouring. On a beautiful day, Odd and me first walked up to Søre Klaua, lots of snow and hard to break trail, but very nice on the way down. From Stallen we walked up to Steinberget and continued up Kirketaket. The ski down the south face was amazing!

I’ve also had some work on snow lately, both guiding and avalanche courses. Posting some pictures from that as well.

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ICE AND WINTER CLIMBING WITH GUIDE IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

IceRomsdalen is famous for it great rock climbing in summer, but in winter, the valley and surrounding mountain is a eldorado for ice and alpine climbing. With its many frozen waterfalls and high mountain alpine routes, you can chose from one pitch waterfalls to multiday alpine routes.

Do you want a winter ascent of the famous peaks Romsdalshorn or Vengetind, or maybe climb long and moderat waterfalls like Ølmåa or Kvernagrova? Or do you just want to experience the fun and wonders of ice climbing down in the valley? There is something for everyone!

Where: Romsdalen

When: November to medio March

Programs: I can arrange different programs that suites you’re level and desires. Contact me for more info!

Price per day:

From NOK 3500,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more

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ROMSDALSHORN IN WINTER

Routes: Halls-renne (normal route or direct)

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 1 or 2 day roundtrip

Best season: November

Difficulties: You should be a experienced climber and be used to climb with ice-axes and crampons. You should move fast on moderat terrain and have good endurance.

Ratio: Up to 2 clients on 1 guide.

If we haven’t climbed together before I would recommend a preparation climb/training day in advance of the climb. We get to know each other and we will be able to move faster and the chances of summiting will increase.

If we go for a one or two days ascent depend on your physical capacity and whether the road is open or not. The climb itself will only take one day.

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ICE-/ALPINE CLIMBING WEEKEND ROMSDALEN

A three day climbing adventure in Romsdalen. We can go alpine- or ice climbing, depending on conditions and your decires.

Contact me for more info aboute what to do.

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 3 days of climbing

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.


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PRIVATE GUIDING IN ROMSDALEN

Do you have a special waterfall or mountain you want to climb in winter conditions? Or do you just want to climb in Romsdalen with a mountain guide. By hiring your own guide you have a unique opportunity to fully experience the mountain and the climbing by your own pace.

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: You decide

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.


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Questions or more info



CLIMBING AND MOUNTAINEERING WITH GUIDE IN HURRUNGANE – NORWAY

Skagastølsryggen

Hurrungane is the number one area of Norway for high, alpine peaks. It’s also the birthplace for Norwegian alpin climbing. Easy accessible peaks surrounded by steep glaciers, long knife edge ridges and big rock and alpine faces makes the area perfect for a summer adventure – on all levels of difficulty. I guide famous peaks such Store Skagastølstind, Austadbotntind and many more. Or maybe you want a little more challenging climbs such as Skagastølsryggen, Søre Dyrhaugstind fra Bandet or maybe Styggedalsryggen. I have long experience from all types of guiding in Hurrungane and can arrange programs that fits your level and desires.

 

Where: Hurrungane – western part of Jotunheimen

When: Medio June to medio September

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio:

For climbing – up to 3 pr guide

For easier peaks – up to 8 pr guide

Price pr day:

From NOK 4000,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more


BOOKING OR MORE INFO

 

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ICE CLIMBING WITH GUIDE IN RJUKAN – NORWAY

ICERjukan is maybe the most fames place in Norway for ice climbing, at least for foreigners. And with good reason! Lots of waterfalls concentrated around the small town, a cold and long winter season makes Rjukan the perfekt place for your ice climbing holiday. I offer guiding and courses on all levels on many of the 192(!!) waterfalls in the area.

Do you have a dream of climbing some of the classic waterfalls of the gorge of Rjukan, go iceclimbing with me. Trappfoss, Rjukanfossen, Nye Vemork, Sabbotørfossen, Juvsøyla and many more – you’re choice!

Where: Rjukan – Norway

When: Desember to medio March

Programs: I can arrange different programs that suites you’re level and desires.

Recommended accommodation: ClimbInn Rjukan

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.

Price per day:

From NOK 3500,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more

Questions or more info


Guiding ice in Hemsedal

Jan. 31.2010

Last two weeks I’ve been working in Hemsedal, mostly with ice climbing. First I had Torleif for three days, we climbed Grøtnuten, Haugsfossen and a long alpine ice route in Grøndalen. This weekend I had Gunnar and Moshe on a ice course. Very cold temperatures, but in the sun it was not to bad.

 

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Skiing and guiding in Romsdalen

Jan.10.2010

Early January has been very good for skiing here in Romsdalen. Cold temperatures and no wind has kept the snow good for a very long time. But the cold temperatures is also one reason why the snowpack is so unstable. So be careful.

This weekend I had a group from Sunnmøre on skitouring/avalanche course. Both weather  and snow was good…

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PRIVAT GUIDING IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

Bispen SummitDo you have a special route or mountain you want to climb? Or do you just want to climb in Romsdalen with a mountain guide. By hireing your own guide you have a unique opportunity to fully experience the mountain and the climbing by your own pace.

kl

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: You decide

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio:

For climbing – up to 3 pr guide

For easier peaks – up to 8 pr guide

k

BOOKING OR MORE INFO