Posts Tagged ‘rock climbing’



A few pictures from the last two weeks of work. Two weeks with climbing course with the Norwegian military academy in Hemsedal and guiding in Hurrungane in the weekends.

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The day after summiting Matterhorn with Karine I started a new 5-day Matterhorn program with Ståle. The first day we climbing on the south face of Riffelhorn before we walked over to Hotel Flualp at 2620m. The next morning we hoped to climb Rimpfischhorn (4199m). We started in rain at night and the weather did not look to promising, but it was not to bad either. We summited in some wind, but on the descent it started snowing and the wind increased. It continued to snow/rain for the rest of the day and night. On day 3 we planed to do the full Breithorn traverse, but after all the snowfall the previous day we ended up doing only the half-traverse. On day 4 we walked up to the Hörnli hut, the weather was good and the hut was full. The next day it was a really busy day on Matterhorn. Conditions was good, but we had to wear crampons from approximately 3850m. We summited quite early and did not meet the worst queue before we were on the fixed ropes on the descent. Below are some pictures from the whole week.

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The last weeks I’ve been in the Alps guiding. From July 21.-26. I was guiding Karine on a Matterhorn program. First we had 4 beautiful days i Chamonix doing Aiguille du Moine, the Midi-Plan Traverse and the Cosmique Ridge. Then we traveled to Switzerland and Zermatt. There we walked up to the Hörnli Hut and on July 26. we climbed Matterhorn. It was a good day on Matterhorn, weather was perfect, conditions were quite good and it was not to much people. Below are some pictures from the whole week.

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Last week I was one of the instructor on a climbing course for NORTIND – the Norwegian IFMGA guide scheme.  We had a varied week with some rescue training a lot of theory around personality and leadership, but mostly we were climbing. We did routes on Bispen, Vengetind, Romsdalshorn and Klaua and we also did some sport climbing and bouldering.

Below is some pictures.



Here’s a short movie from me guiding the Hörnli ridge on Matterhorn Aug. 24. with Erik Stordal.



Sunrise on summit of Mont Blanc. We are already on the way down

The last three weeks I’ve been guiding in the Alps. First in Chamonix with two 6 days Mont Blanc programs. Then I moved to Zermatt to guide Matterhorn. Unfortunately I did not get any climbing done on my own. The weather and conditions were really good for most of my stay, but it was raining hard on all my days off. Below is pictures from acclimatization on both Mont Blanc weeks and from summit days on Mont Blanc and Matterhorn. First time on Matterhorn we started from Tête Rousse hut and climbed the Goûter route up and The Three Monts route down. The second time, we also did the traverse, but this time starting from Cosmiques Hut and climbed Three Monts up and Goûter down. On Matterhorn we climbed Hornli both up and down.

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Jens Stoltenberg and me on Romsdalshorn


Long time since last post so here’s a short update. After I came home from Alaska I’ve been working in the western part of Norway. Mostly guiding and some climbing courses; in Hurrungane and Romsdalen. My most memorable day was in mid July when I guided the Norwegian Prime Minister, Jens Stoltenberg, to the summit of Romsdalshorn. It was a beautiful day, clouds down low and perfect blue sky up high. The Prime Minister was impressively fit and climbed well for being such a busy man.

Recently I’ve been working with the Norwegain military academy in Hemsedal, teaching them how to climb. In between two courses with them I had four good days in Hurrungane, guiding long ridge traverses. Doing Skagastølsryggen, Smørstabbtraversen and Austadbotntindtraversen x 2 in four days made me really tired, specially since it was the rest days in between the work withe the army. But guiding 1:1 with fit clients on nice climbs like this is fun and I really enjoyed it.

Now I have two days off and I fly to the Alps tomorrow – guiding Mont Blanc and Matterhorn, but hopefully, also a climb or two on my own.

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Eiger seen from Kleine Scheidegg

Eiger and it’s 1800meter high north face is one of the most impressive features in the Alpes. The drama prior to the first ascent, all the impressive routes and all the books and movies made about it, both documentaries and fiction, has made Eiger one of the best known mountain in the world. The first ascent route from July 1938 by Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek is the most famous and most climbed route in the Nordwand.

I’ve wanted to climb the Eigerwand by its classic route for very long, simply because I’ve read and heard so much about the wall. It’s one of those mountains you just cant get out of your head. Same as for the Trollwall in Norway, witch I still haven’t climbed. Not yet.

I traveled to the Alpes on February 8. knowing that the Alpes hadn’t had any big snowfalls for a long time and that conditions on many of the big alpine faces was good. I received a mail from my Grindelwald friend Andreas the same same day as I left, saying conditions was good on Eiger. And flying into Geneva in good weather I had a perfect view straight onto the Eigerwand. I couldn’t wait to climb it, just needed to find a partner.

I had two days of acclimatization in Chamonix first – soloing a easy route on the Tacul Triangle to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul and the next day, soloing Fil a Plumb in the north face of Midi/Col du Plan. I was living in the same apartment as Ole Kristian Nytrøen and when I started talking about Eiger he was of course keen. Ole is one of very few young Norwegians who are keen on alpine climbing and he was the perfect partner for Eiger.

We slept comfy inside the Eigergletscher station the night before the climb and started just before 03.00 on February 12. And the climb went quite smooth. Conditions was very good with tracks on the snowfields, sometimes to much. In the dark, we had a hard time finding the Difficult crack because we followed the wrong tracks… Except for the 4 (or so) crux’s pitches we mostly simul-climbed and summited a little more than 12 hours after we started climbing. Not to bad, but still more than 4 times longer then the Swiss machine Ueli Steck. We descended the west face and made it back to Eigergletscher in a 15 hours roundtrip. We then walked back to Grindelwald and drove back to Chamonix the same night, making it a really long day. Modern alpinism – sleeping comfy, going light and fast and making it back home for a beer. Today we climb much faster than the pioneers and that might seems very impressive, but we are just lacy and sissies compered to the climbers who pioneered this big faces back in the golden age of alpinism.

The Eigerwand has been called “an obsession for the mentally deranged” and maybe it is? But the only way to get healed was to climb it. And in the process I got an adventure into alpine climbing history and a fantastic alpine terrain.

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Situated in the middle of Europe, there’s no where else in the world where you have so easy access to spectacular mountains. The Alps is said to be the birthplace of modern mountaineering and alpinism, and it offers easy routes for beginners and steeper, longer and more demanding routes for highly skilled mountaineers. And everything in between.
Do you have special route or mountain you want to climb? Or do you just want to climb and experience the mountains with a private guide? The Alps is a perfect place to experience and learn more about mountaineering. The lifts and the huts makes access easy and we can travel with light backpacks and focus on the climbing.
For most climbs in the Alps you need at least 1 or 2 days of acclimatization before the routes, and for the bigger routes on the highest peaks you should have 3-4 days. On this days we do interesting climbs that prepare us for the route we’re aboute to climb.

Below you can see a list of peaks and routes from different areas. The list shows just some of the routes I guide, please contact me if you want more information. I customize programs for you!

Mont Blanc Range – France:
Mont Blanc – Normal routes, Bionnassay or Innominata Route (from Italy)
Mont Maudit – Normal Route or Kuffner ridge
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Aiguille Du Midi – Cosmiques Ridge or Frendo Spur
Dent du Geant
Aiguille de Rochefort – Rochefort Ridge
Tour Ronde – North face, Gervasitti or South ridge
Midi-Plan Traverse
Aiguille du Chardonnet – Forbes Ridge
Aiguille Verte – Whymper Couloir (south) or Couturier (north)
Les Courtes – Travers
Grandes Jorasses – Traverse or Normal route

Wallis/Vallee – Switzerland:
Matterhorn – Hörnli Ridge or Zmutt Ridge
Monte Rosa – Normal Route
Weissmies – Normal Route or South Ridge(Traverse)
Breithorn – Normal Route or Half/Full traverse

Berner Oberland – Switzerland
Eiger – Mittellegi or South ridge
Mönch – Southeast or Southwest Ridge
Jungfrau – Normal route

Bernina/Engadine – Switzerland
Piz Badile – North Ridge or North Face (Cassin)
Piz Bernina – Biancograt
Piz Palu
Piz Morteratsch

Duration: You decide 
When: June to end of September
Difficulties: All levels
Ratio: 1:1 or 2:1 depending on route

Price from: 
NOK 3.500,- per person pr day
(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide, all expenses for your guide and climbing equipment)


Guiding Mont Blanc

On the Bosses ridge with the shadow of Mont Blanc behindSept 17. 2010

On September 4.-9. I had two Norwegians for a 6 days Mont Blanc program through my company Breogfjell. We acclimatized in the Aiguille du Tour area in perfect weather. But on the 4. day it started to snow and rain and the forcast for the summit day didn’t look to good. We considered different alternatives, but the weather looked bad for most of the central Alpes so we decided to try Mont Blanc. We walked to Tete Rousse hut on day 5 and started at nigth from there in light snowfall. Everything went as planed, the weather just got better and we toped out around 09.00 as first party that day.


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Per Magne on GrandCapucin

Sept 4.2010

After a summer with two much work in Norway I traveled to the Alpes on August 8. for some work and hopefully some climbing on my own. First I traveled to Valais to do a couple of recognition climbs for guiding later in the month. Then I traveled to Chamonix to climb for a week with Trym. But the day Trym arrived it started to rain in town and snow up high and the forecast said it would be like that for 4 days all over the Central Alpes. We packed rope and quickdraws, and together with some friends left Cham and drove down to Ceüse. There, the weather was better but for a mountain guide who mainly been walking and climbing grade 3 all summer, everything but the approach felt very steep.

When weather looked better for the Alpes we went back to Chamonix, there it had snowed  around 50 cm at 3000 meters, but after some days of good weather we hoped that it had melted enough and headed up to the Enveres hut. But we were to early and everything was still wet. Trym went home and the last day before I started working I teamed up with Ole Kristian and Steinar for a day at the south face of Midi. Weather was not very good, light snowfall at times and forecast said thunderstorm in early afternoon so we did Rebuffat to be sure to get up before the weather came. All of us had done the route before, but it was nice to finally do some climbing in the mountains and we had a very fun day, specially at the belays…

On August 21. I started a 6 days Matterhorn program with two Norwegians – Tone and Knut Johan Stenerud. First we had three days in Saastal with some rock climbing on Dri Horlini and a ascent of Weissmies (4017m). In the afternoon on the third day we traveled to Zermatt, there we did Breithorn (4164m) the next day. All week it was very uncertain about how conditions would be on Matterhorn. The big snowfall a week earlier had left around 60cm of snow at the Hörnli hut and a lot more on the mountain. It was melting every day, but we didn’t know if it would be enough. But with the good weather forecast we decided to try. On Matterhorn the guide:client ratio is 1:1 so Rok Zalokar, my Slovenian friend and guide joined us for the ascent. I started early from Zermatt on the 25. to climb a little higher then the Hörnli to check out conditions. I turned back at the Shoulder at 4200m, up to there conditions were good but above it looked like it was a lot of snow. As always on the Hörnli hut, “breakfast” is served at 04.00 and all guided parties start at 04.20. The ascent went OK, some queuing the first hour and the normal chaos on the fixed ropes up high. We summited 08.30 in blue sky and perfect weather. On the descent it was even more chaos than on the ascent but below the Shoulder everything went smoothly and we were at the hut again before 13.00.

After Matterhorn I traveled back Chamonix for some climbing in the mountains. But the weather was not the best and I just ended up rock climbing close to Sallanches and in Italy. When it finally cleared again Per Magne and I had two great days on the granite. The first day we climbed on the south face of Pointe Lachenal and the next day we wanted to try Grand Capucin. Capucin is not a very high summit, but on of the most impressing granite towers in the Mont Blanc massif. The 400 meter high east face has the most challenging routes, we climbed a combination of Voie des Suisses and O Sole Mio on the South face, mostly grade 5 with some pitches of 6. It was for sure on of my best days of rock climbing in the Alpes! Now I start 6 days of work in Chamonix and we hope to climb Mont Blanc.


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Above the clouds on Storen 2010-07-04After alpine climbing and skiing a lot this winter and spring it was nice to have three weeks off from guiding in late May and early June. I was rock climbing most of the time, first in the in eastern part of Norway, then Bohuslan and a short trip to Peak District in England to try out the grit stone.

But the last three weeks I’ve been guiding in Norway. Mostly in Romsdalen, but I also had ten days at Turtagrø, guiding in Hurrungane. Both places still had a lot of snow with was both both good and bad. Hard trail braking on the way up, but good for the knees and efficiency on the way down.

In Hurrungane I had two long trips in beautiful weather on Styggedalsryggen, Sentraltind, Vesle Skagastølstind before finishing on Store Skagastølstind. Lots of  snow, both old and fresh, made both trips interesting with almost winter conditions on some of the climbing. Here’s some pictures, also from trips to Storen in Hurrungane and Romsdalshorn in Romsdalen.

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Arriving in Chalten


Finally I’ve made a post about my Patagonia trip.

In late November I traveled to Patagonia together with Trym A. Sæland and Sigurd Backe. We flew from Norway on Nov. 21. and arrived in Chalten to a short weather window. On the 24. we climbed Benitiers on El Mocho.

After that, one week of “Patagonia weather” forced us to stay in Chalten, mostly eating chocolate at the Chocolateria and drinking beer in the Cerveceria. But in early December the pressure was rising and we headed up the Torre valley, to Niponino again. On Des. 4 we climbed Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy, probably the best routes I have ever done! First 1000meters of snow- and ice, then 24 pitches of mix terrain up to grad 5.10. The weather was not to good in the morning, but it cleared and we had blue sky and some wind on the summit. The 500 meters of abseiling down Franco-Argentine was interesting, specially after it got dark.

After two rest days the weather was still good and we climbed the 800 meter long Clara de Luna on St. Exupery on Des. 8. Again, a superb route.

On a day with not so good weather, lots of wind and cold temperatures, we climbed Piola route on St. Rafael on Des 10.

On the 11. Sigurd and me teamed up with Lena Dahl and climbed the North ridge on De la S. Another fun day climbing.

Sigurd and me wanted to try to get one more climb before the weather turned bad again and tried Poincenot, but it was one day to late and we was turned back because of bad weather.

Some days later, Sigurd went home to Norway and Trym’s girlfriend arrived so I was more or less without a partner. But the weather forecast said two weeks of bad weather so it didn’t really matter. Instead I teamed up with Marco and Mario, two Swiss climbers I’ve met at the Cerveceria, for a roadtrip down south…


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Photo credit: Trym A. Sæland, Sigurd Backe and Nils Nielsen



Hurrungane is the number one area of Norway for high, alpine peaks. It’s also the birthplace for Norwegian alpin climbing. Easy accessible peaks surrounded by steep glaciers, long knife edge ridges and big rock and alpine faces makes the area perfect for a summer adventure – on all levels of difficulty. I guide famous peaks such Store Skagastølstind, Austadbotntind and many more. Or maybe you want a little more challenging climbs such as Skagastølsryggen, Søre Dyrhaugstind fra Bandet or maybe Styggedalsryggen. I have long experience from all types of guiding in Hurrungane and can arrange programs that fits your level and desires.


Where: Hurrungane – western part of Jotunheimen

When: Medio June to medio September

Difficulties: All levels


For climbing – up to 3 pr guide

For easier peaks – up to 8 pr guide

Price pr day:

From NOK 4000,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more





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Bispen SummitDo you have a special route or mountain you want to climb? Or do you just want to climb in Romsdalen with a mountain guide. By hireing your own guide you have a unique opportunity to fully experience the mountain and the climbing by your own pace.


Schedule: Private booking

Duration: You decide

Difficulties: All levels


For climbing – up to 3 pr guide

For easier peaks – up to 8 pr guide




Bispen S-ridge5 days of climbing in Romsdalen will guarantee you to give you a unique experience. Rock climbing down in the valley and long climbs in the mountains gives a good combination for your holiday.


Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 5 days

Difficulties: You don’t need any climbing experience, but you should be in normal good shape and be used to walking in the mountains.

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.

DAY-BY-DAY (suggestion):

Day 1: Rock climbing at Hornaksla

Day 2: Ascent of Vengetind

Day 3: Multi-pitch climbing on Norafjell

Day 4: Ascent of Kvanndalstind and Thorshammeren

Day 5: Ascent of Romsdalshorn




Kvanndalstind SummitA three day climbing adventure in Romsdalen. We can climb on multi-pitch routes down in the valley or climb peaks such as Romsdalshorn, Vengetind, Kvanndalstind, Juratind or many more.

Contact me for more info aboute what to do.


Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 3 days of climbing

Difficulties: You don’t need any climbing experience, but you should be in normal good shape and be used to walking in the mountains.

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.

DAY-BY-DAY (suggestion):

Day 1: Rock climbing at Hornaksla

Day 2: Ascent of Romsdalshorn

Day 3: Ascent of Vengetind or Kvanndalstind



DrømmediederetDrømmediederet on Store Vengetind is maybe one of the best routes for it’s grade in Norway. The climbing is super-fun and situated on the highest mountain in Romsdalen the surroundings are breathtaking.


Routes: Drømmediederet

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 1 day, 9-11 hours

Best season: June to September

Difficulties: You must be in good shape, used to move in exposed terrain and you most be able to follow Norwegian grade 5-.

Ratio: Up to 2 clients on 1 guide.

If we have not climbed together before I would recommend a preparation-climb/ training day prior to the ascent.



Romsdalshorn is one of the most famous mountains in Norway. The history of the first (and second) ascent, the shape of the mountain and the 1500 vertical meters down to the valley floor on the west, makes this a ultra classic, like Matterhorn in the Alpes. And the view of the Trollwall, across the valley, is breathtaking.

For those of you who are not used to climbing or moving in exposed terrain – get ready to be impressed!


Routes: Nordveggen or Halls-renne

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 1 day, 7-9 hours

Best season: June to September

Difficulties: You don’t need any climbing experience, but you should be in normal good shape and be used to walking in the mountains. If you have never climbed before, I would recommend a short introduction to climbing the evening prior to the ascent.

Ratio: Up to 2 clients on 1 guide.



ThorshammerenRomsdalen is famous for it’s great climbing and spectacular mountains all over the world. Here you find everything from small crags to big mountain routes.

Do you want to ascent one of the famous peaks Romsdalshorn, Vengetind or Kvanndalstind, or maybe you want to climb long and moderat multi-pitch routes down in the valley. Or do you want to do easy hikes to exposed summits? There is something for everyone!

Where: Romsdalen – West coast of Norway

When: Medio May to September

Programs: I can arrange different programs that suites you’re level and desires. In addition to toures and programs mentioned below, I can also guide other mountain and climbs. Contact me for more info!

Difficulties: All levels


For climbing – 1-3 pr guide

For easier peaks – up to 8 pr guide

Price per day:

From NOK 3500,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more






Booking or more info


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Oct 14. 2009

After a long summer of guiding I finally got to do some climbing on my own. In late September Eiliv Ruud and I travelled to Chamonix in hope of good conditions on big alpine faces. But the temperature when we arrived gave better condition on south facing rock then on north facing ice. We had some good days on rock and got acclimatized at the same time. Standing on the summit of Tacul, after a ice-climb on the Triangle we thought we saw some ice in the east face of Maudit. Some days later we enjoyed good conditions on Roger Baxter-Jones Direct in the east face.

We hoped that the north face of Grand pilier d’Angle on Mont Blanc would be in. And we made the long hike over to Col Moore to find out that the face was in, but the rest of the approach looked very, very dangerous after the warm summer. We walked home.

In early October we hiked up the Leschaux glacier to the base of Grand Jorasses north face. The next day we climbed a combination of the Slovenian route and the Croz, giving a perfect combination of ice, snow and rock on a big and beautiful face. Because of the state of the south face and the fact that the Major of Courmayeur has “closed” the Italian side of Jorasses, we didn’t summit Pte Walker, the high-point of Jorasses. We abseiled straight down the south face from Pte Croz, avoiding the super-dangerous hanging glacier on the normal route descent. The whole thing was quite scary and keeping our attention all the way down. But 14 hours after we started climbing, we was drinking beer in a Italian bar…

Photo-credit: Eiliv Ruud and Nils Nielsen

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Soloppgang på Matterhorn

Soloppgang på Matterhorn


Sammen med Mont Everest er Matterhorn et av verdens mest kjente og ikoniske fjell – en frittstående pyramide som rager høyere enn 1000 meter over fjellene rundt – og sett fra Zermatt er Matterhorn et fantastisk skue. Og klatre på Matterhorn er krevende og kan være veldig utsatt om du ikke vet hva du gjør. Vi har guidet Matterhorn mange ganger og kjenner fjellet godt. Hörnli-ruta som klatres fra den Sveitsiske siden involverer 1200meter med alt fra utsatt gåing til klyving og bratt snø og is.

Fantastisk soloppgang høyt på Matterhorn

For å klatre Matterhorn må du være i  god fysisk form og være vant til å ferdes i utsatt terreng – noe klatreerfaring bør du også ha.
Du må være godt forberedt og godt akklimatisert. Vi ønsker i utgangspunktet at du bruker 4 dager (6 dager totalt) til forberedelse og akklimatisering sammen med oss, men vi kan også gjøre det på 3 dager totalt. En testtur vil vi uansett ha.
Vi kan også klatre fjellet fra Italia og Cervina, denne turen er litt mer krevende, men har vesentlig mindre folk og er vel så fin.
Forberedelsene og akklimatiseringen for Matterhorn gjør vi normalt i fjellene rundt Chamonix eller Zermatt – vi legger opp spennende turer som passer ditt nivå og klatrer et eller flere 4000meters fjell på veien.
Ta kontakt for mer info og evt spørsmål.

Hvor: Zermatt eller Cervina
Varighet: 3-6 dager
Når: Juli til tidlig September
Vanskelighetsgrad: Matterhorn er 1200 meter med klyving. Du må være i god form og vant til å ferdes i fjellet på snø is og klippe.
Antall gjester: 1 gjest pr fører på Matterhorn, opp til 2 gjester pr fører på akklimatisering
Pris: 20.000 pr pers for 5 dager med 2 pers. (en fører i 3 dager så to førere de 2 siste dagene)
Prisen inkluderer førere og alle deres kostnader. Dine reisekostnader og kostnader på hytter kommer i tillegg.

Her er en liten film fra Matterhorn 24. August 2011