Posts Tagged ‘Romsdal’

GREAT START FOR SKI TOURING SEASON IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

In late October we had one BIG snow dump on the west-coast followed by nice weather. Below is some pictures from 3 amazing days of October skiing. After that it’s been variable temperatures and weather so the skiing was not great for long, but we had som nice days in between.

 


NORTIND CLIMBING COURSE

Last week I was one of the instructor on a climbing course for NORTIND – the Norwegian IFMGA guide scheme.  We had a varied week with some rescue training a lot of theory around personality and leadership, but mostly we were climbing. We did routes on Bispen, Vengetind, Romsdalshorn and Klaua and we also did some sport climbing and bouldering.

Below is some pictures.

 


Highcamp Turtagrø, guiding the Norwegian Crown Prince and powder in Romsdalen

First week of May is normally the busiest week of the year for me, and this year was no exception. Together with the rest of Breogfjell, I organize all the guided tours and courses on Friflyt’s Highcamp at Turtagrø. That means 21 guides and around 150 clients in the mountains for three days.
I traveled to Turtagrø on monday 30. to find out about snow and glacier conditions on most of the mountains we planed to use during the camp. I did a lot of nice tours on my own the first days, going with light gear and visiting many peaks every day. The weather was much better than the skiing…
The camp was as usual super busy, more than 500 people in total. This year the Norwegian Crown Prince visited the camp. He has always been a dedicated telemarker, but this was his first time skiing in Hurrungane. I had the privilege to guide him for two days, witch was a fun experience. Saturday we had really nice weather in the morning and the snow was good. Saturday the weather was not so good, but we found some good snow.

Now I’m finally back in Romsdalen after a long winter with a lot of traveling. I don’t have much plans for May except to ski and climb as much as possible. The start has been good, skiing powder in the morning and climbing in the afternoon. Thursday 10. was a perfect day, cold in the morning and sunny. It was the fourth day with nice weather and still no tracks on the north-ridge of Vengetind. I did not expect to find good snow, but wanted to ski Vengetind anyway. The snow on the upper ridge was much better than expected and on the top I was super psyched about the descent. But I soon realized that one of the bindings was broken. FU$#!!! I had borrowed a pair of demoski (brand is unknown…) and had not bother to check if it was working as it should. So I had to walk most of the way down again, not fun!

Espen Kristiansen from Friflyt/Field Productions made a small video from one of the days I skied with Crown Prince Haakon. Here it is:

Here’s a article and some pictures from Friflyt.no

And belowe is some pictures from Highcamp and skiing in Romsdalen last week


Alpine ski touring course in Romsdalen

Last week I had a 5 days alpine ski touring course in Romsdalen. The weather as not the best even though we had a few days of sun-shine, but rain and a lot of wind most days. Obviously, the snow was not the best either, everything from super hard crust to slush. Well, not everything between, we did not have any powder.
But it was 5 fun days in the mountains with Hilde, Pernille, Mikkel and Petter.

Below is a few pictures

 


ICE CLIMBING COURSE

Back in Norway for a few weeks. Last week I was one of the teachers for the candidates on the Norwegian IFMGA guide training program. It was a ice climbing course held in my home area – Romsdalen. I’m very happy to be a part of the guide training and as always, this courses are very inspiring and fun work. And I think it’s a great that I can give something back to the Norwegian guide association – NORTIND. The only thing that’s a bit boring aboute this courses is that I don’t do any leading, just seconding.
But this was not the best days for a climbing course, during the course we had more than one meter of fresh snow. Because of all the snow and high avalanche risk we could not do any of the longer routes we had planed. And to be honest, we could barely get on anything at all.
The last day of the course we used a lift block to pull various V-anchors and ice screws in a lot of different ice. To pull ice gear is always very interesting and and you learn a lot, or maybe you don’t? At least its very difficult to generalize from it. Normally anchors in good ice is very strong and the rest is….sometimes strong, and sometimes not. But it’s fun to place a ice screw, feel how the ice is when drilling it into the ice and then make a guess aboute how strong it is.

Below is a few pictures and a short video from pulling an ice screw.

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MORE SKIING

Here’s a few pictures from skiing in Romsdalen and Sogndal before and after Christmas. Most of December was spent in Romsdalen, some alpine skitouring and some cross country skiing. Then I was in Sogndal the first week after new year. I’s been snowing a lot on the west coast and the skiing has been amazing the last week. Unfortunately I haven’t taken many pictures, but here’s a few.

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FINALLY SNOW AND SKI IN ROMSDALEN

After a very warm and dry November be finally had a big snowfall on the west coast of Norway. In Romsdalen we got almost one meter of snow in the mountains last weekend. Unfortunately it came with a lot of wind, but it’s still possible to find very good snow in south and east facing bowls. Here’s a few pictures from skiing on Skarven in Skorgedalen.

 

 

 

 


SUMMER IS WORK

Jens Stoltenberg and me on Romsdalshorn

 

Long time since last post so here’s a short update. After I came home from Alaska I’ve been working in the western part of Norway. Mostly guiding and some climbing courses; in Hurrungane and Romsdalen. My most memorable day was in mid July when I guided the Norwegian Prime Minister, Jens Stoltenberg, to the summit of Romsdalshorn. It was a beautiful day, clouds down low and perfect blue sky up high. The Prime Minister was impressively fit and climbed well for being such a busy man.

Recently I’ve been working with the Norwegain military academy in Hemsedal, teaching them how to climb. In between two courses with them I had four good days in Hurrungane, guiding long ridge traverses. Doing Skagastølsryggen, Smørstabbtraversen and Austadbotntindtraversen x 2 in four days made me really tired, specially since it was the rest days in between the work withe the army. But guiding 1:1 with fit clients on nice climbs like this is fun and I really enjoyed it.

Now I have two days off and I fly to the Alps tomorrow – guiding Mont Blanc and Matterhorn, but hopefully, also a climb or two on my own.


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WORK AND SOME FUN

Bjørn Kruse on Kjørlifossen


January and first part of February I’ve been in Norway. Working quite a bit, but also been skiing and climbing with friends. I’ve had to nice weekends skiing with clients in Romsdalen, the rest of the time I’ve been in the eastern parts of Norway – Rjukan, Hemsedal and Lærdal for ice climbing – mostly work. Below you can see some pictures from the ice climbing.

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GUIDING IN HURRUNGANE AND ROMSDALEN

Above the clouds on Storen 2010-07-04After alpine climbing and skiing a lot this winter and spring it was nice to have three weeks off from guiding in late May and early June. I was rock climbing most of the time, first in the in eastern part of Norway, then Bohuslan and a short trip to Peak District in England to try out the grit stone.

But the last three weeks I’ve been guiding in Norway. Mostly in Romsdalen, but I also had ten days at Turtagrø, guiding in Hurrungane. Both places still had a lot of snow with was both both good and bad. Hard trail braking on the way up, but good for the knees and efficiency on the way down.

In Hurrungane I had two long trips in beautiful weather on Styggedalsryggen, Sentraltind, Vesle Skagastølstind before finishing on Store Skagastølstind. Lots of  snow, both old and fresh, made both trips interesting with almost winter conditions on some of the climbing. Here’s some pictures, also from trips to Storen in Hurrungane and Romsdalshorn in Romsdalen.

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END OF WINTER

HauteRoute 2010 04 19-24 2010-04-20On April 19. I started guiding my third and last Haute Route for the season, Also this time for my company, Breogfjell. We had a good week with warm temperatures and very stable snow conditions. In combination with very good client this gave me a quite easy week of work. But we had a very hard time finding good snow.

After Haute Route I returned home to Romsdalen for some ski guiding there before I went to Turtagrø and Highcamp. Breogfjell is responsible for all the guiding there and we had 20 guides on work May 7.-9. Weather was perfect and cold temperatures gave good conditions for skiing.

Next week I guided Karine for three days home in Romsdalen. The first day we did Hesteskotraversen in perfect conditions, cold in the morning and good slush down from Kirketaket in the afternoon. The next day we did Juratind. Warmer temperatures during the night gave very loose snow all the way to the top and down again, but it wasn’t to bad. The last day we did Skjervan from the east. We could drive quite high and had perfect weather and OK snow.

After a long winter it was very good to finally put away the skis and start rock climbing. And as always after a winter with to much guiding and alpine climbing, the first days on rock felt terrible for my fingers.

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ICE Norway winter 2010

Me climbing last pitch of Hydne. Photo: Kristoffer SzilasThis ice conditions in Norway has been extraordinary this winter. All over southern Norway it was cold and stable temperatures from mid December to early March. In Romsdalen where I live the conditions has been OK on some of the classic lines. But due to the little snow and cold temperatures early in the season, the smaller streams witch makes the good alpine lines froze to early to make them climbable. But other places nearby, like Eikesdalen and Geiranger has seen a lot of first ascents. Unfortunately I’ve been a lot away for work and never made it to Geiranger this winter. But I’ve had some good climbing in Hemsedal, with some first ascent and I’ve got the chance to climb some of the bigger classic waterfalls that I’ve wanted to climb for a long time.

Below you can see pictures from some of the climbs.

Short movie from a wet day on Vettis. Credit: Bjørn-Eivind Aartun

 

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More skiing in Romsdalen

SøreKlauva 2010-02-09

Feb. 15. 2010

Since I came back to Romsdalen in early February skiing has been very good. It’s been snowing a lot, but in between its been sunny and perfect days for skitouring. On a beautiful day, Odd and me first walked up to Søre Klaua, lots of snow and hard to break trail, but very nice on the way down. From Stallen we walked up to Steinberget and continued up Kirketaket. The ski down the south face was amazing!

I’ve also had some work on snow lately, both guiding and avalanche courses. Posting some pictures from that as well.

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ICE AND WINTER CLIMBING WITH GUIDE IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

IceRomsdalen is famous for it great rock climbing in summer, but in winter, the valley and surrounding mountain is a eldorado for ice and alpine climbing. With its many frozen waterfalls and high mountain alpine routes, you can chose from one pitch waterfalls to multiday alpine routes.

Do you want a winter ascent of the famous peaks Romsdalshorn or Vengetind, or maybe climb long and moderat waterfalls like Ølmåa or Kvernagrova? Or do you just want to experience the fun and wonders of ice climbing down in the valley? There is something for everyone!

Where: Romsdalen

When: November to medio March

Programs: I can arrange different programs that suites you’re level and desires. Contact me for more info!

Price per day:

From NOK 3500,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more

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ROMSDALSHORN IN WINTER

Routes: Halls-renne (normal route or direct)

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 1 or 2 day roundtrip

Best season: November

Difficulties: You should be a experienced climber and be used to climb with ice-axes and crampons. You should move fast on moderat terrain and have good endurance.

Ratio: Up to 2 clients on 1 guide.

If we haven’t climbed together before I would recommend a preparation climb/training day in advance of the climb. We get to know each other and we will be able to move faster and the chances of summiting will increase.

If we go for a one or two days ascent depend on your physical capacity and whether the road is open or not. The climb itself will only take one day.

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ICE-/ALPINE CLIMBING WEEKEND ROMSDALEN

A three day climbing adventure in Romsdalen. We can go alpine- or ice climbing, depending on conditions and your decires.

Contact me for more info aboute what to do.

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 3 days of climbing

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.


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PRIVATE GUIDING IN ROMSDALEN

Do you have a special waterfall or mountain you want to climb in winter conditions? Or do you just want to climb in Romsdalen with a mountain guide. By hiring your own guide you have a unique opportunity to fully experience the mountain and the climbing by your own pace.

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: You decide

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.


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Questions or more info



Skiing and guiding in Romsdalen

Jan.10.2010

Early January has been very good for skiing here in Romsdalen. Cold temperatures and no wind has kept the snow good for a very long time. But the cold temperatures is also one reason why the snowpack is so unstable. So be careful.

This weekend I had a group from Sunnmøre on skitouring/avalanche course. Both weather  and snow was good…

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CLIMBING ROMSDALEN, fall 2009

Trym on a winter free ascent of DrømmediederetNov 17. 2009

Winter started early with great skiing in early October, but the rest of October and November has been mild and dry. This warm weather gave good conditions for alpine climbing up high. I’ve been lucky and have finally done some of the routes that been on my mind for a very long time. Here are some pictures from the last month climbing.

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PRIVAT GUIDING IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

Bispen SummitDo you have a special route or mountain you want to climb? Or do you just want to climb in Romsdalen with a mountain guide. By hireing your own guide you have a unique opportunity to fully experience the mountain and the climbing by your own pace.

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Schedule: Private booking

Duration: You decide

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio:

For climbing – up to 3 pr guide

For easier peaks – up to 8 pr guide

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CLIMBING WEEK WITH GUIDE IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

Bispen S-ridge5 days of climbing in Romsdalen will guarantee you to give you a unique experience. Rock climbing down in the valley and long climbs in the mountains gives a good combination for your holiday.

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Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 5 days

Difficulties: You don’t need any climbing experience, but you should be in normal good shape and be used to walking in the mountains.

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.

DAY-BY-DAY (suggestion):

Day 1: Rock climbing at Hornaksla

Day 2: Ascent of Vengetind

Day 3: Multi-pitch climbing on Norafjell

Day 4: Ascent of Kvanndalstind and Thorshammeren

Day 5: Ascent of Romsdalshorn

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CLIMBING WEEKEND WITH GUIDE IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

Kvanndalstind SummitA three day climbing adventure in Romsdalen. We can climb on multi-pitch routes down in the valley or climb peaks such as Romsdalshorn, Vengetind, Kvanndalstind, Juratind or many more.

Contact me for more info aboute what to do.

 

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 3 days of climbing

Difficulties: You don’t need any climbing experience, but you should be in normal good shape and be used to walking in the mountains.

Ratio: Up to 3 clients on 1 guide, depending on the difficulties. One or two clients are the best, three clients limites what we can do.


DAY-BY-DAY (suggestion):

Day 1: Rock climbing at Hornaksla

Day 2: Ascent of Romsdalshorn

Day 3: Ascent of Vengetind or Kvanndalstind

 


DRØMMEDIEDERET ON VENGETIND WITH GUIDE – ROMSDALEN, NORWAY

DrømmediederetDrømmediederet on Store Vengetind is maybe one of the best routes for it’s grade in Norway. The climbing is super-fun and situated on the highest mountain in Romsdalen the surroundings are breathtaking.

 

Routes: Drømmediederet

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 1 day, 9-11 hours

Best season: June to September

Difficulties: You must be in good shape, used to move in exposed terrain and you most be able to follow Norwegian grade 5-.

Ratio: Up to 2 clients on 1 guide.

If we have not climbed together before I would recommend a preparation-climb/ training day prior to the ascent.

 



CLIMB ROMSDALSHORN WITH GUIDE – NORDVEGGEN MED FJELLFØRER

Romsdalshorn is one of the most famous mountains in Norway. The history of the first (and second) ascent, the shape of the mountain and the 1500 vertical meters down to the valley floor on the west, makes this a ultra classic, like Matterhorn in the Alpes. And the view of the Trollwall, across the valley, is breathtaking.

For those of you who are not used to climbing or moving in exposed terrain – get ready to be impressed!

 

Routes: Nordveggen or Halls-renne

Schedule: Private booking

Duration: 1 day, 7-9 hours

Best season: June to September

Difficulties: You don’t need any climbing experience, but you should be in normal good shape and be used to walking in the mountains. If you have never climbed before, I would recommend a short introduction to climbing the evening prior to the ascent.

Ratio: Up to 2 clients on 1 guide.

 



CLIMBING AND MOUNTAINEERING WITH GUIDE IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

ThorshammerenRomsdalen is famous for it’s great climbing and spectacular mountains all over the world. Here you find everything from small crags to big mountain routes.

Do you want to ascent one of the famous peaks Romsdalshorn, Vengetind or Kvanndalstind, or maybe you want to climb long and moderat multi-pitch routes down in the valley. Or do you want to do easy hikes to exposed summits? There is something for everyone!


Where: Romsdalen – West coast of Norway

When: Medio May to September

Programs: I can arrange different programs that suites you’re level and desires. In addition to toures and programs mentioned below, I can also guide other mountain and climbs. Contact me for more info!

Difficulties: All levels

Ratio:

For climbing – 1-3 pr guide

For easier peaks – up to 8 pr guide

Price per day:

From NOK 3500,-

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all climbing equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more


ROMSDALSHORN


DRØMMEDIEDERET ON VENGETIND


CLIMBING WEEKEND IN ROMSDALEN


CLIMBING WEEK IN ROMSDALEN


PRIVAT GUIDING


Booking or more info

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ALPINE SKI TOURING WITH GUIDE IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

SteinbergetFew places in the world can offer the same as Romsdalen – blue fjordes, green valleys and snow covered mountain. Easy access,  the fact that there are few people and no lift resorts, makes Romsdalen a unique place on earth!

I offer guiding on famous peaks such as Kirketaket, Kjøvskardstind, Blånebba, Nonstind and many more.

I can arrange accommodation, food and transport for weekend and 6-day programs.


Where: Romsdalen – West-coast of Norway

When: January to May

Schedule: Private/groupe booking

Duration: 1 to 6 days

Ratio: Up to 6 clients on 1 guide

Price:

1-3 persons is NOK 3.500,- per day

4-6 persons is NOK 900,- per person per day

(price includes IFMGA mountain guide and avalanche safety equipment)

Discount if booking 4 days or more


BOOKING OR MORE INFO


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SKIING BY BOAT ON THE WEST-COAST OF NORWAY WITH GUIDE

Skarven

We offer the unique and exotic concept SKIING BY BOAT in the Norwegian fjords. With skitoures on big alpine peaks and our expedition equipped aluminium sailing yacht as a floating hotel, we can give you a skiing experience out of the ordinary.

We use the fjords in Romsdalen and Sunnmøre as our “basecamp” and the surrounding peaks as our playground.

The 43 foot sailing yacht (2008) has three double cabins, two bathrooms, kayak, and diving equipment on board.  We can sail you to the foot of the mountain so that you literally can start your top climb from the deck of our boat.

Where: Møre and Romsdal – West-coast of Norway

Start and Stop: Molde or Ålesund

When: Mach to April

Duration: 7 days, 6 days of skiing

Ratio: Up to 6 clients on 1 guide

Price:

NOK 15.000,- per person with minimum 4

(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide, avalanche safety gear, food and accommodation in sail boat, skipper and cook)


BOOKING OR MORE INFO