Posts Tagged ‘ski’

TO HAUTE ROUTE – CHAMONIX TIL ZERMATT

Klassisk motiv fra turen mellom Dix og Vignettes

Klassisk motiv fra turen mellom Dix og Vignettes

I mars og april står normalt normalt lengre skiturer i Alpene på programmet og i år er intet unntak – vårsesongen på ski er min travleste jobb-periode. Nylig avsluttet jeg to Haute Route fra Chamonix til Zermatt på 12 dager. Det var litt tight å ankomme Zermatt på ettermiddagen også møte nye gjester i Chamonix samme kveld for så å starte dagen etter, men alt går. Været var stort sett veldig bra så da går det ikke ann å klage, spesielt så lenge snøen også holdt seg overraskende god. Etter Haute Route ble det en ad hoc tur til Berner Oberland og Aletcshorn på 4193 meter – et veldig flott fjell. Sola skinte der også.
Det er vårlige temperaturer i Chamonix om dagen og jeg har ambisjoner om å gjøre det beste ut av noen fridager – enten i fjellet eller nede i dalen.

 

Fra Argentiere mot Champex

Fra Argentiere mot Champex

For en gangs skyld fint vær på turens høyeste punkt - Pignes d'Arolla

For en gangs skyld fint vær på turens høyeste punkt – Pignes d’Arolla

Men ikke på tur nr 2 - vi gikk rundt Pignes

Men ikke på tur nr 2 – vi gikk rundt Pignes

Col de Valpelline - bare nedkjøringen til Zermatt igjen

Col de Valpelline – bare nedkjøringen til Zermatt igjen

Veldig fine forhold på vei mot Aletschorn

Veldig fine forhold på vei mot Aletschorn


SKITURER I GRESSONEY, CHAMPOLUC OG ALAGNA

Over skyene ved Rifugio Gnifetti

Over skyene ved Rifugio Gnifetti

Skitursesongen er for alvor i gang i Alpene og jeg hadde nylig noen flotte dager på ski på sydsiden av Monte Rosa massivet med Kim, Fredrik og Tormod. Målet var å oppdage området, komme oss bort fra heisene, gå mest mulig på høydemeter og kjøre fin snø ned igjen. Ja, også hadde vi lyst på en 4000meters topp. Enkel plan, men ikke alltid like lett å realisere. Det var litt for lenge siden det hadde snødd og i mellomtiden hadde det både vært mildvær og en del vind. Det var bare å begynne å lete.
Vi hadde Gressoney som utgangspunkt, den midterste av de tre dalene. Første dag tok vi heis over til Champoluc og gikk mange runder i en hestesko av nord- og østvendte heng. Været var nydelig og vi fant fantastisk snø. Dag to besteg vi den 4046meter høye Punta Giordani i helt fantastisk vær og vi fikk utrolig nok flott snø ned igjen. Etter å spist lunch i skianlegget gikk vi en ettermiddagstur sydover og fant både sporet og usporet tørrsnø ned igjen til dalen. Siste dagen var det skodde og overskyet, vi gikk oss over til Alagna, heis opp igjen før vi gikk opp til Rifugio Gnifetti. Der var vi over skydekket og utsikten var upåklagelig.
Tre flotte dager og planen ble realisert.
Gressoney og området rundt er fantastisk både for off-pist og skiturer – det blir definitivt flere turer dit! 

 

Fint sted for lunch

Fint sted for lunch

Tormod kjører fin snø i Champoluc

Tormod kjører fin snø i Champoluc

Matterhorn i det fjerne

Matterhorn i det fjerne

Fire fornøyde gutter på Punta Giordani

Fire fornøyde gutter på Punta Giordani

 


HAUTE ROUTE – THE CLASSIC ROUTE FROM CHAMONIX TO ZERMATT

March 31. till April 5. I had a group for the Classic Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt. After some problems at the start with closed lifts, one meter of fresh snow and considerable avalanche danger we finally started our traverse of the western Alps on April 1. The day before was spent with avalanche rescue training and touring in Les Grands Montets.
When we finally started we did Col du Passon, Col du Superioeur du Tour and had amazing snow in Val d’Arpette down to Champex where we stayed one night. The next day we started from Bourg-Saint-Pierre and skinned up to Cabane de Valsoray in sunny weather. From Valsoray we had very good conditions on the climb up to Plateau du Couloir and good snow on north-facing aspects down the Durant glacier, we spent the night at Cabane du Chanrion. For the next to days the weather forecast was not the best. When starting from Chanrion it was clear sky, but windy. We planed to do the Serpentine glacier and over Pigne d’Arolla to Cabane des Vignettes instead of  doing the boring and never-ending Otemma glacier. Soon it was cloudy and by the time we got to Passage de la Serpentine it was windy, snowing and no visibility. We did not summit Pigne and the skiing down to Vignettes was interesting in whiteout – like being inside a bottle of milk. Last day to Zermatt was another day in clouds and bad visibility, but not much wind. Some times we did see something, but we had more or less whiteout on all descents. We never saw Matterhorn and by the time we arrived in Zermatt it was raining.
It’s not always sunny on Haute Route.
Click on images to see larger version

 


MOVIE FROM WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP IN SKI-ALPINISME

 

FFME has made a nice movie to promote ski-alpinisme. Footage from this years world championship in Pelvoux, France. Get inspired!

 


GREAT START FOR SKI TOURING SEASON IN ROMSDALEN – NORWAY

In late October we had one BIG snow dump on the west-coast followed by nice weather. Below is some pictures from 3 amazing days of October skiing. After that it’s been variable temperatures and weather so the skiing was not great for long, but we had som nice days in between.

 


Highcamp Turtagrø, guiding the Norwegian Crown Prince and powder in Romsdalen

First week of May is normally the busiest week of the year for me, and this year was no exception. Together with the rest of Breogfjell, I organize all the guided tours and courses on Friflyt’s Highcamp at Turtagrø. That means 21 guides and around 150 clients in the mountains for three days.
I traveled to Turtagrø on monday 30. to find out about snow and glacier conditions on most of the mountains we planed to use during the camp. I did a lot of nice tours on my own the first days, going with light gear and visiting many peaks every day. The weather was much better than the skiing…
The camp was as usual super busy, more than 500 people in total. This year the Norwegian Crown Prince visited the camp. He has always been a dedicated telemarker, but this was his first time skiing in Hurrungane. I had the privilege to guide him for two days, witch was a fun experience. Saturday we had really nice weather in the morning and the snow was good. Saturday the weather was not so good, but we found some good snow.

Now I’m finally back in Romsdalen after a long winter with a lot of traveling. I don’t have much plans for May except to ski and climb as much as possible. The start has been good, skiing powder in the morning and climbing in the afternoon. Thursday 10. was a perfect day, cold in the morning and sunny. It was the fourth day with nice weather and still no tracks on the north-ridge of Vengetind. I did not expect to find good snow, but wanted to ski Vengetind anyway. The snow on the upper ridge was much better than expected and on the top I was super psyched about the descent. But I soon realized that one of the bindings was broken. FU$#!!! I had borrowed a pair of demoski (brand is unknown…) and had not bother to check if it was working as it should. So I had to walk most of the way down again, not fun!

Espen Kristiansen from Friflyt/Field Productions made a small video from one of the days I skied with Crown Prince Haakon. Here it is:

Here’s a article and some pictures from Friflyt.no

And belowe is some pictures from Highcamp and skiing in Romsdalen last week


GUIDING IN CHAMONIX AND 4000METER WEEK IN ZERMATT/SAAS FEE

On the weekend March 30. to April 1., I guided ski touring around Chamonix with Ellen, Morten and Christopher. We had amazing weather, the snow was not the best, but we found some nice slush every day. The first day we skied from Aiguille du Midi and over to the Italian border and down the Glacier de Toule to Helbronner mid station for lunch there. In the afternoon we skied back down Glacier du Geant and down to Montenvers. Day 2 we went to the Argentier basin and skied to Col d’ Argentier. On sunday we went to the Aiguille Rouges and Col du Belvedere.

The same afternoon I finished work in Chamonix I drove to Zermatt for 6 days of 4000 meter peak bagging between Zermatt and Saas Fee with Ola and Petter. They had already been acclimatizing for a few days so the first day we could climb Breithorn (4164m) and Pollux (4092m) before we skied down the Swarztor gletscher. Day two we took an early train to Saas Fee and climbed Allalinhorn (4027m) before we skied to the Britannia hut. In that afternoon the weather changed, after 2 weeks with perfect blu sky it finally started snowing. Day 3 the weather was not the best i and we were the only one leaving the hut after a early breakfast. But after a few hours we were above the clouds and on top of Stralhorn (4190m). We continued down Adlerpass to Findelgletscher, and in bad weather, we skinned up to Stockhornpass and traversed to my favorite hut, the New Monte Rosa Hut. Day 4 it had been snowing all night and it was still snowing in the morning. We had planed some kind of rest day and after a late start we skinned a few hundred meters up the Monte Rosa Gletscher towards Dufourspitze as the weather cleared. The skiing back down to the hut was amazing, 50cm of perfect snow. To bad my skies was only 80mm under foot. Day 5 the plan was to climb Dufourspitze (4634m) and Nordend (4609m), the two highest mountains in Switzerland. The weather was perfect and I had one of my most beautiful mornings in the mountains. But we had to turn around at 4250m, with all the fresh snow on top of hard crust, we could not justify to continue. So we enjoyed the same snow on the way down to the hut and continued down to Zermatt for lunch. The last day the weather forecast was not so good, but in the morning it was ok and we hoped to climb Castor(4223m) before it started snowing. Timing was perfect, we summited and it started snowing when we were  down on the lower Gornergletscher after skiing the Swarztor once again.

So, finally, after 20 days of ski touring boots I could have some days of.
The last two days I haven’t done much except resting and trying to catch up on my computer work. This morning I went up in the Aiguille Rouges and skied the Glacier du Mort. Since it’s north facing I had hoped to find good snow, but I was wrong, there had been to much wind.

Click on images to see larger versions


HAUTE ROUTE AND ZERMATT GUIDING

Since last blog update I’ve been busy. On March 17. I started in what has become the worlds biggest cross-country ski race – Birkebeineren. It was 11 years since my last ski race so I did not have to high goals, except to beat most of my old training buddies from Gran. The race is 54km, my skies was not the best for the first half, but they got better for the last half. I finished as 141 of around 16.000, not to bad for a mountain guide. But most important, I was faster than my friends from Gran :)
On the 18. I traveled to Chamonix to start guiding in the Alps the day after. Of course, one of my bags was delayed. All my ski gear was missing and I had a stressful day and night to get ready for Haute Route. Never book your flights through Copenhagen with less than one and a half hour for transit. It seams like thats the minimum it takes for the Copenhagen airport to move bags from one plane to another. I’ve had my bags delayed there once before and have had many clients who did not get they’re bags either.

Haute Route was fun, great clients and both weather and skiing was good. The first day we had heavy snowfall, but after that, mostly blue sky, no wind and warm for being March. We did the Verbier route, conditions in general is better than at the same time last year. But if this warm temperatures continues, the snow in south and west facing aspects will not last much longer.
After Haute Route I had one rest day in Zermatt before I started guiding again. The weather was still good and I wanted to get to know the area between Saas Fee and Zermatt better. I’m having a 6-days program there in easter. So, early in the morning I got on the first train to Saas Fee. First I climbed Allalinhorn, a 4000meter peak that is easy accessible from the ski lift. After that I climbed the ridge over to Feechopf and down to Alphubeljoch. Then I skied down to the Mellich-gletscher and up to Allalinpass, down to Allalin-gletscher and up to Adlerpass and down to Zermatt. A perfect day, but not exactly a rest day.

The next day I started a 3-days guiding around Zermatt. We had various planes, but because of some sickness we ended up doing something completely different from everything we had planed.
The first day we skied to the Monte Rosa hut, this was my first time at the new hut and it was almost better than I’ve been told. Day two, we climbed towards Dufourspitze, but had no plans about summiting. We turned around just above 4000meters and skied down to the hut. On north facing aspects we could still find good snow. The last day we skied down to Furi and took the lift to Kl Matterhorn. From there we climbed Breithorn and skied down the Swartztor gletscher – Zermatt’s Valle Blanch – before traveled back to Chamonix.

Today is a big organizing day before I start guiding again the next 9 days. I needed to get an look at conditions here so in the morning I went for a quick ski in the Aiguilles Rouges.

Below is a few pictures from the last 11 days.
Click on images to see larger versions

 


TOPPTURER MED GUIDE

Ferske spor på Kirketaket i Romsdalen

Ferske spor på Kirketaket i Romsdalen


Alpine skiturer kan gi deg unike muligheter, utfordringer og fantastiske opplevelser i vinterfjellet. Kombinasjonen med fjord og vinterkledde fjell slik som vi har mange steder i Norge er helt unik.


Alpine skiturer, topptur eller randonee – kjært barn har mange navn – har økt voldsomt i popularitet de siste årene. Dette er en ganske ung ”sport” i Norge, men de i Alpelandene har lange tradisjoner for å gå til fjells med alpint skiutstyr. De siste årene har nordmenn for alvor fått øynene opp for hvilke muligheter dette gir og flere og flere går på ”topptur”. Vinterfjellet kan være krevende, spesielt i forhold til vurdering av snø og skred. Og leie en fjellfører er en god investering, spesielt for sikkerheten, men også for å finne den beste snøen og få mest mulig ut av turen. 

På ski i Lofoten

På ski i Lofoten

Romsdalen, Sunnmøre, Hemsedal, Sogn, Lofoten eller Lyngen – vi guider de fleste stedene i Norge på forespørsel.  Vennligst ta kontakt for mer info. Vi finner turer som passer deg og gruppa din, både i forhold til ferdigheter, form og erfaring. Vi kan også være behjelpelige med å organisere reise, bo og bespisning.

Detaljer
Når: Januar til medio mai
Antall gjester: Maks 6-8 pr fører
Sikkerhetsutstyr: Skredutstyr (sender/mottaker, spade og søkestang) er obligatorisk
Pris: Fra 3500,- pr dag
Prisen inkluderer fører og evt lån av sikkerhetsutstyr

Flott nedkjøring fra Kolåstind på Sunnmøre

Flott nedkjøring fra Kolåstind på Sunnmøre


Alpine ski touring course in Romsdalen

Last week I had a 5 days alpine ski touring course in Romsdalen. The weather as not the best even though we had a few days of sun-shine, but rain and a lot of wind most days. Obviously, the snow was not the best either, everything from super hard crust to slush. Well, not everything between, we did not have any powder.
But it was 5 fun days in the mountains with Hilde, Pernille, Mikkel and Petter.

Below is a few pictures

 


CHAMONIX SKI – VALLE BLANCHE, OFF-PIST OG SKITURER MED GUIDE

Fjellene rundt Chamonix byr på fantastisk skikjøring

Fjellene rundt Chamonix byr på fantastisk skikjøring


Chamonix og fjellene rundt byr på fantastiske muligheter for ski – både off-pist-kjøringen og turmulighetene er nesten ubegrenset. Vi tilbyr off-pist, alpine skiturer og “bli-kjent” føring for alt fra nybegynnere til den erfarne.


Lett adkomst fra heisene, godt egnet skiterreng, spektakulære omgivelser og ofte god snø er noen av grunnene til at Chamonix er verdt et besøk. Men av de samme grunnene er også Chamonix et travelt sted og det er ikke alltid så lett å finne god snø i det krevende terrenget. I tillegg er veldig mye av den beste skikjøringen på breer og kjennskap til lokale forhold, snøen og breene er ofte en forutsetning for å kunne ferdes trygt. En guide er ingen garanti for å finne god snø, men vi hjelper deg så godt vi kan, og sikkerheten er alltid i fokus.
Nedenfor følger noe av det vi kan tilby for skikjørere i Chamonix. Ikke nøl med å ta kontakt om du ønsker noe annet.

Flotte forhold ned fra Les Grands Montets

Flotte forhold ned fra Les Grands Montets

Vallee Blanche
Skituren ned Valle Blanche, fra toppen av Aiguille du Midi på 3800meter og ned til Chamonix på 1000meter, er en av verdens mest berømte nedkjøringer. Den tar deg gjennom et av Alpenes mest alpine fjellområder, ned spektakulære brefall med fantastisk utsikt til fjellene rundt. En tur du sent vil glemme.
Off-pist skiguiding
De 5 forskjellige skianleggene i Chamonix byr alle på variert og flott off-pist skikjøring med alt fra store åpne områder på breer til flott skogskjøring. Vi hjelper deg å finne den beste snøen i terreng som passer deg.

Alpine skiturer
Skiturer på feller er en av de flotteste måtene å oppdage vinterfjellet, du kommer deg bort fra skianleggene og kan nyte flotte nedkjøringer. Med Chamonix som utgangspunkt har vi masse forskjellige typer turer å velge i. Aiguille Rouge og området rundt Argeniter breen er våre favoritter, men det er masse, masse mer å ta av.

Bli-kjent føring
Dette er for deg som ønsker å bli kjent i heisanleggene i Chamonix. Avhengig av gruppa og ønsker, men vi kjører i bakken eller utenfor og vi tar oss rundt i de forskjellige anleggene i Chamonix dalen. Dette er en fin måte og bli kjent både med skikjøringen i Chamonix og med de rådende snøforholdene. Om vi holder oss i bakken kan vi ha med opp til 10 stk.

Med Chamonix som utgangspunkt er mulighetene nesten ubegrenset.

Mer info nedenfor bildet

Alpin skitur i Chamonix

Alpin skitur i Chamonix

Detaljer
Når: Desember til mai
Antall gjester: Maks 6 gjester pr fører
Sikkerhetsutstyr: Sender/mottaker, spade og søkestang er obligatorisk på all off-pist og skiturer. I tillegg trengs det sele om vi skal på bre. Dette kan lånes av oss.
Pris:
Halv dag: fra 3000NOK pr fører
Hel dag: fra 3500NOK pr fører
Prisen inkluderer førere og evt lån av sikkerhetsutstyr

Forbehold om vær og føre
Mange av skiturene i Chamonix er væravhengige, spesielt turene som går på bre. På turer som Valle Blanche er vi helt avhengig av å ha ok sikt. Hvis forholdene ikke er tilfredsstillende for den planlagte turen finner vi andre alternativer. I den grad vi har mulighet til det, prøver å være fleksible slik at du skal få en trygg og best mulig opplevelse.

Skitur over Col du Passon

Skitur over Col du Passon


GUIDING SKI IN CHAMONIX

Recently I bought a small apartment  in Chamonix. I still plan to have Romsdalen and Norway as my home, but the apartment makes it a lot easier for me to work and spend time in the alpine capital. So I hope to spend more time her both in summer and winter.

So the last weeks I’ve been in Chamonix, mostly guiding ski. I had planed to do some climbing on my days off, but both weather and conditions has been best for skiing. It’s actually been really good for skiing.
I’ve not taken many pictures, but below you can se a few. Most are from working with the Norwegian students at Active Education.

 


MORE SKIING

Here’s a few pictures from skiing in Romsdalen and Sogndal before and after Christmas. Most of December was spent in Romsdalen, some alpine skitouring and some cross country skiing. Then I was in Sogndal the first week after new year. I’s been snowing a lot on the west coast and the skiing has been amazing the last week. Unfortunately I haven’t taken many pictures, but here’s a few.

Click on images to see larger versions

 


FINALLY SNOW AND SKI IN ROMSDALEN

After a very warm and dry November be finally had a big snowfall on the west coast of Norway. In Romsdalen we got almost one meter of snow in the mountains last weekend. Unfortunately it came with a lot of wind, but it’s still possible to find very good snow in south and east facing bowls. Here’s a few pictures from skiing on Skarven in Skorgedalen.

 

 

 

 


EXPRESS-ALPINISM FAILS IN ALASKA

Starting on Hunter

 

I’m just back from a climbing trip with American Colin Haley to the Central Alaska range. When we left, we had a lot of different objectives in mind and ambitious plans. We ended up without doing any of the bigger climbs we had hoped for, but nevertheless, we had a good trip. Our main objectives was to climb the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter and the Cassin ridge on Denali. We wanted to climb both as fast as possible, hopefully faster than it had ever been done before.

Colin updated his blog some days ago with words and pictures, check it out HERE. He’s not as lazy as me and has a more complete report. He’s english is a lot better also 😉

Here’s my quick resume of the trip:

We flew on to the glacier on May 12. and after some days of acclimatizing around base camp we climbed the 1200 meter high Deprivation on the north buttress of Hunter in just 9 hours, but never summited. When we toped out the final ice band it started to snow hard. We sat in a crevasse for some hours hoping for better weather, but it just got worse. We had no bivi gear and bailed, abseiling 30 or so abseils in very bad spindrift through the night.

After that we moved up on Denali, acclimatizing from 14.000 camp. We had skis so we did a bunch of skiing, often in good snow. We summited Denali twice, first climbing the Upper West Rib. Later we climbed up the Orient Express with skis and skied from the summit and down the Orient. Conditions were ok, but the snow was very hard in the upper half of the Orient.

After that it snowed a bunch and time started to run out. When the weather finally got better we decided to try Cassin. We knew there would be a lot of fresh snow on the route and if we had more time we would have waited for the snow to settle, but we didn’t. Conditions on the Seattle 71 ramp approach and in the Japanese Couloir were super good, but after that it was just snow, snow and more snow. When we got to the top of the third rock band we were so tiered that we decided to bail. We traversed the upper part of the south-west face back to the upper west rib and down to camp. A few days later, on June 21., we flew out of the range, Colin back to Seattle and me home to Norway.

Below there is a lot of pictures from the trip, click on images to see larger versions.


4000-METER UKE I ZERMATT OG SAAS-FEE MED GUIDE

På toppen av Signalkuppe 4554m

På toppen av Signalkuppe 4554m


Området rundt Zermatt og Saas-Fee har de fleste av de høyeste fjelltoppene i Alpene og mange av de egner seg veldig godt for skiturer. Bli med på en fantastisk uke på noen av alpenes høyeste fjell.


Med utgangspunkt i Zermatt eller Saas-Fee har man tilgang på noen av de enkleste 4000 meters toppene i Alpene, men man har også tilgang på noen av de høysete. Her er det bare å velge å vrake. Enkelte av toppene kan man gå på ski helt til topps, men de fleste setter man igjen skiene litt nedenfor toppen og går på stegjern til topps. Og innimellom toppene prøver vi å få til så mye god skikjøring som mulig.

Nedenfor følger to forslag til ukesopplegg, begge på 5 dager. Hvis man legger på en dag til kan man enten legge på en dag ekstra i starten for mer akklimatisering, eller ha en ekstra dag å gå på mot slutten av uka. Vi anbefaler 6 dager.
Begge oppleggene krever god fysisk form og at man har god skiferdighet.

Soloppgang på vei mot Stralhorn

Soloppgang på vei mot Stralhorn

Signalkuppe-uke
Forslag med grupper på opp til 4-6 pers
Dag 0: Oppmøte i Saas-Fee
Dag 1: Allalinhorn 4027m – overnatting på Britannia hytta
Dag 2: Stralhorn 4190m – gjennom Adlerpasset og ned til Zermatt
Dag 3: Breithorn 4164m – ned Schwarztor breen og til Monte Rosa hytta
Dag 4: Ludwigshöhe 4321m og/eller Vincentpyramide 4215m – overnatting på Mantova hytta i Italia
Dag 5: Parrotspitze 4432m og/eller Signalkuppe 4454m – ned til Zermatt
På disse toppene kan vi ha med opp til 6 personer, men i utgangspunktet ønsker vi ikke mer enn 4 gjester pr fører. Om vi har vært på tur med dere før, og vet at dere har de rette forutsetningene, kan vi ta med opp til 6 pers pr fører.

Dufourspitze-uke
Maks 2 gjester pr fører
Dag 0: Oppmøte i Saas-Fee
Dag 1: Allalinhorn 4027m – overnatting på Britannia hytta
Dag 2: Rimpfischorn 4199m – overnatting på Britannia hytta
Dag 3: Stralhorn 4190m – gjennom Adlerpasset og ned til Zermatt
Dag 4: Breithorn 4164m, Pullox 4092m eller Castor 4223m, ned Schwarztor breen og til Monte Rosa hytta
Dag 5: Dufourspitze 4634m (og Nordend 4609m) – ned til Zermatt
Dufourspitze er Alpene nest høyeste fjell og krever klatring de siste meterne mot toppen.

Detaljer
Hvor: Zermatt og Saas Fee
Reise: Fly til Geneve eller Zurich, tog eller shuttle derfra.
Når: Medio mars til ultimo april
Vanskelighetsgrad: Disse turene krever at du er i god fysisk form og at du har gode skiferdigheter både oppover og nedover.
Antall gjester: 1-6 pr fører
Priser for 2015 (5 dager):
– ved 2 pers: NOK 13 750 pr pers
– ved 3 pers: NOK 9 600 pr pers
– ved 4 pers: NOK 7 500 pr pers
– ved 5 pers: NOK 6 250 pr pers
– ved 6 pers: NOK 5 500 pr pers
Prisen inkluderer guide og alle hans kostnader. Dine reise, kost og losji kommer I tillegg.
Ta kontakt for pris ved større grupper.

På toppen av Stralhorn

På toppen av Stralhorn

 

Monte Rosa hytta og Matterhorn

Monte Rosa hytta og Matterhorn

 


BACK IN CHAMONIX – SKI, CLIMB, WORK

Nils climbing in the Alpes. Photo by Colin Haley

On March 10, after two weeks of work with the Norwegian military academy, I was back in Chamonix. I was excited to start with two weeks of skiing and climbing with friends before starting the Haute Route season. The first week the weather was not the best – warm foehn wind and some snow so we ended up with skiing and climbing at the gym in Les Houches. On the 15, Colin Haley arrived, our plan was to climb and ski as much as possible together to get fit for our upcoming Alaska trip in May/June.

After some snowfall we started with some skitouring in the Argentier basin. The best day was definately skiing the normal route (west) on Aiguille d’ Argentier with Colin and Morgan Sahlen on March 20. Some days later we tried to climb the Frendo Spur in the north face of Midi, but bailed low on the route after battling with some of the worst snow conditions any of us had ever experienced – we couldn’t even get up to the steeper part of the route.

On March 23, we climbed the north face of Les Droites starting from the first lift. Last year we climbed Le Ginat together, but now we wanted to climb something that would take us to the top of the mountain, not just to the Breche des Droites. We did the Messner Route and like the other two times we climbed Les Droites we “descended” by climbing the west ridge of Le Courtes and down the northeast to our skis in the Argentier basin. We found a much better way down Droites than earlier and did not loose to much elevation before going up the west ridge of Courtes. And I think that this is by far the easiest way to get off the mountain, specially when it’s a lot of snow and as long as you don’t climb with your skis on the pack, which is no fun anyway.

On the 25, we climbed the Coutrier on Aiguille Verte – one of my favorite summits in the Alpes. We hoped to ski the Whymper on the south side, but conditions were really bad. Colin took a few turns while I did’t even take on my skis in the couloir.

The next day I started guiding Haute Route from Chamonix to Saas Fee. One week of mostly good weather, but not so good snow. We did the normal Verbier variant but never got to Saas Fee. The last day we had a ski tour in Zermatt.

Back in Chamonix, after one day of rest, Colin and me had a mellow day in the Argentier basin by simul-soloing the Swiss route on Les Courtes. Both of us had soloed the route before, but now we could both enjoy the freedom of climbing without a rope and the fun of climbing with a partner. The route was in perfect condition and the climb took us around 2 hours from bergschround to summit. As usual, we down climbed the northeast back to our skis and were back in Chamonix in early afternoon. Another perfect day in the mountains.

There’s been mostly good weather since and we been climbing a lot, but more about that later.


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CHAMONIX SKIING WITH GUIDE

Chamonix and the surrounding mountains can offer some of the best skiing in the world, both the off-piste skiing and the ski touring is fantastic. The easy access, the spectacular soundings, the good ski terrain and great snow makes Chamonix a place you have to visit. But the same reasons also makes Chamonix a very busy place and it can be hard to find good snow and with all the glaciered terrain and avalanche risk you have to be careful. Hiring a guide for some days or for your whole stay can be smart thing to do, helping you to get a safe and enjoyable skiing.
I can arrange everything from one day of lift accessed skiing to multiple days of ski touring in the Chamonix area. To combine off-piste skiing with ski touring is often the best and what gives you the best snow.

Suggestions:
Below is just suggestions and most likely will we end up doing it in different order or maybe doing something completely different. To find good snow will always be top priority!

Three days off-piste skiing:
DAY 1: Le Tour
DAY 2: Les Grande Montets
DAY 3: L´Aiguille du Midi and Vallee Blanche

Three days of ski touring:
DAY 1: Aiguilles Rouges to Le Buet
DAY 2: L´Aiguille du Midi, ski tour to Italy and then ski Vallee Blanche back
DAY 3. Argentiére basin which has a lot of options

Where: Chamonix 
Duration: You decide
When: Mid December to end of April
Difficulties: All levels
Ratio: Max 6 clients on 1 guide
Price from: 
NOK 3.500 a day
(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all expenses for your guide)

BOOKING OR MORE INFO


GUIDING IN HURRUNGANE AND ROMSDALEN

Above the clouds on Storen 2010-07-04After alpine climbing and skiing a lot this winter and spring it was nice to have three weeks off from guiding in late May and early June. I was rock climbing most of the time, first in the in eastern part of Norway, then Bohuslan and a short trip to Peak District in England to try out the grit stone.

But the last three weeks I’ve been guiding in Norway. Mostly in Romsdalen, but I also had ten days at Turtagrø, guiding in Hurrungane. Both places still had a lot of snow with was both both good and bad. Hard trail braking on the way up, but good for the knees and efficiency on the way down.

In Hurrungane I had two long trips in beautiful weather on Styggedalsryggen, Sentraltind, Vesle Skagastølstind before finishing on Store Skagastølstind. Lots of  snow, both old and fresh, made both trips interesting with almost winter conditions on some of the climbing. Here’s some pictures, also from trips to Storen in Hurrungane and Romsdalshorn in Romsdalen.

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END OF WINTER

HauteRoute 2010 04 19-24 2010-04-20On April 19. I started guiding my third and last Haute Route for the season, Also this time for my company, Breogfjell. We had a good week with warm temperatures and very stable snow conditions. In combination with very good client this gave me a quite easy week of work. But we had a very hard time finding good snow.

After Haute Route I returned home to Romsdalen for some ski guiding there before I went to Turtagrø and Highcamp. Breogfjell is responsible for all the guiding there and we had 20 guides on work May 7.-9. Weather was perfect and cold temperatures gave good conditions for skiing.

Next week I guided Karine for three days home in Romsdalen. The first day we did Hesteskotraversen in perfect conditions, cold in the morning and good slush down from Kirketaket in the afternoon. The next day we did Juratind. Warmer temperatures during the night gave very loose snow all the way to the top and down again, but it wasn’t to bad. The last day we did Skjervan from the east. We could drive quite high and had perfect weather and OK snow.

After a long winter it was very good to finally put away the skis and start rock climbing. And as always after a winter with to much guiding and alpine climbing, the first days on rock felt terrible for my fingers.

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GUIDING HAUTE ROUTE – TIMES 2

On March 28. I started two weeks of guiding Haute Route – from Chamonix to Zermatt for Breogfjell. On the first trip, we had a lot of snow and wind on the first days and the avalanche bulletin said grade 4. So instead of doing the Col du Chardonnet to the Trient Hut we did the Col du Tour Noir and skied back down to Grand Montets and took a taxi to Verbier. The next days we experienced all types of weather and snow before it finally cleared and we had perfect weather and good skiing down to Zermatt.

The next week Breogfjell had two groups on Haute Route, Stein Møller and me guiding the Verbier-variant and Halvor Dannevig doing the classic route. The first day it was snowing a lot, but starting from Argentier Hut in the morning of April 5., we had clear sky and a lot of fresh snow. Breaking trail all the way to Trient Hut was hard work. The next morning we had good snow and perfect skiing down Val d´Arpette to Champex. The same day, we also had good skiing from the summit of Rosablanche and down to the Prafleuri Hut. From Prafleuri to Dix we had good weather and those who went up to La Luette in the afternoon had good skiing down. Over Pigne d´Arolla, weather was changing and skiing down to Vignettes Hut was memorable, but not in a good way. I had a cold and some fever the whole week and when one client wanted to go down to Arolla the next morning, I was happy to join him while Stein and Halvor took the two groups safely to Zermatt.

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SKIING AND CLIMBING IN CHAMONIX…


Les Courtes North face…mostly skiing

On March 16. I traveled to Chamonix for 6 weeks, 3 of them for work. Before the guiding started I had 10 days of skiing and climbing on my own. When I arrived it hadn’t snowed for a long time and conditions was good for climbing. But to acclimatize I first did some skitouring. On the 19. I climbed the Swiss route in the north face of Les Courtes. The conditions were good and I had tracks from another party on the snowy part of the the climb. The climb took me 2.15. I climbed with short approach skis on my backpack so I could ski down the Telèfre side and down to Chamonix.

The next days it was raining in town, but snowing up high. When it finally cleared I had some good days of skiing from Midi.

On the 23. I teamed up with Amandine and Cristophe for the Aig d´Argentier. Weather and conditions was perfect. We went up the normal route on the west side, but skied down on the east. From the Saleina glacier we went throw the Fenetre de Saleina and Col du Tour, before we finished a long day with lots of good skiing down to Le Tour.

 

Christophe skiing the east face (Barbey Couloir) of Argentier

 

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In the ARMY

KS2010 2010-03-08Mar.11.2010

The last two weeks I’ve been working with the Norwegian army in Setesdalsheiene in the southern part of Norway. I’ve been with Hærens Krigsskole (Military Academy) and its been normal winter courses based on Nils Faarlund’s and Norges Høgfjellsskole’s philosophy.

We had very good weather both weeks, cold and stable temperatures with little or no wind. Even though it’s been two weeks of work the day’s was never hard and it felt more or less like recreation, at least for the body. Setesdalsheiene has Norways most southern population of wild rain deer and we was lucky and met them many times. We believed that we once counted around 400, but it’s hard to tell.

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More skiing in Romsdalen

SøreKlauva 2010-02-09

Feb. 15. 2010

Since I came back to Romsdalen in early February skiing has been very good. It’s been snowing a lot, but in between its been sunny and perfect days for skitouring. On a beautiful day, Odd and me first walked up to Søre Klaua, lots of snow and hard to break trail, but very nice on the way down. From Stallen we walked up to Steinberget and continued up Kirketaket. The ski down the south face was amazing!

I’ve also had some work on snow lately, both guiding and avalanche courses. Posting some pictures from that as well.

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