Posts Tagged ‘video’

Highcamp Turtagrø, guiding the Norwegian Crown Prince and powder in Romsdalen

First week of May is normally the busiest week of the year for me, and this year was no exception. Together with the rest of Breogfjell, I organize all the guided tours and courses on Friflyt’s Highcamp at Turtagrø. That means 21 guides and around 150 clients in the mountains for three days.
I traveled to Turtagrø on monday 30. to find out about snow and glacier conditions on most of the mountains we planed to use during the camp. I did a lot of nice tours on my own the first days, going with light gear and visiting many peaks every day. The weather was much better than the skiing…
The camp was as usual super busy, more than 500 people in total. This year the Norwegian Crown Prince visited the camp. He has always been a dedicated telemarker, but this was his first time skiing in Hurrungane. I had the privilege to guide him for two days, witch was a fun experience. Saturday we had really nice weather in the morning and the snow was good. Saturday the weather was not so good, but we found some good snow.

Now I’m finally back in Romsdalen after a long winter with a lot of traveling. I don’t have much plans for May except to ski and climb as much as possible. The start has been good, skiing powder in the morning and climbing in the afternoon. Thursday 10. was a perfect day, cold in the morning and sunny. It was the fourth day with nice weather and still no tracks on the north-ridge of Vengetind. I did not expect to find good snow, but wanted to ski Vengetind anyway. The snow on the upper ridge was much better than expected and on the top I was super psyched about the descent. But I soon realized that one of the bindings was broken. FU$#!!! I had borrowed a pair of demoski (brand is unknown…) and had not bother to check if it was working as it should. So I had to walk most of the way down again, not fun!

Espen Kristiansen from Friflyt/Field Productions made a small video from one of the days I skied with Crown Prince Haakon. Here it is:

Here’s a article and some pictures from

And belowe is some pictures from Highcamp and skiing in Romsdalen last week


Back in Norway for a few weeks. Last week I was one of the teachers for the candidates on the Norwegian IFMGA guide training program. It was a ice climbing course held in my home area – Romsdalen. I’m very happy to be a part of the guide training and as always, this courses are very inspiring and fun work. And I think it’s a great that I can give something back to the Norwegian guide association – NORTIND. The only thing that’s a bit boring aboute this courses is that I don’t do any leading, just seconding.
But this was not the best days for a climbing course, during the course we had more than one meter of fresh snow. Because of all the snow and high avalanche risk we could not do any of the longer routes we had planed. And to be honest, we could barely get on anything at all.
The last day of the course we used a lift block to pull various V-anchors and ice screws in a lot of different ice. To pull ice gear is always very interesting and and you learn a lot, or maybe you don’t? At least its very difficult to generalize from it. Normally anchors in good ice is very strong and the rest is….sometimes strong, and sometimes not. But it’s fun to place a ice screw, feel how the ice is when drilling it into the ice and then make a guess aboute how strong it is.

Below is a few pictures and a short video from pulling an ice screw.

Click on images to see larger versions




Here’s a short movie from me guiding the Hörnli ridge on Matterhorn Aug. 24. with Erik Stordal.



Les Courtes North face…mostly skiing

On March 16. I traveled to Chamonix for 6 weeks, 3 of them for work. Before the guiding started I had 10 days of skiing and climbing on my own. When I arrived it hadn’t snowed for a long time and conditions was good for climbing. But to acclimatize I first did some skitouring. On the 19. I climbed the Swiss route in the north face of Les Courtes. The conditions were good and I had tracks from another party on the snowy part of the the climb. The climb took me 2.15. I climbed with short approach skis on my backpack so I could ski down the Telèfre side and down to Chamonix.

The next days it was raining in town, but snowing up high. When it finally cleared I had some good days of skiing from Midi.

On the 23. I teamed up with Amandine and Cristophe for the Aig d´Argentier. Weather and conditions was perfect. We went up the normal route on the west side, but skied down on the east. From the Saleina glacier we went throw the Fenetre de Saleina and Col du Tour, before we finished a long day with lots of good skiing down to Le Tour.


Christophe skiing the east face (Barbey Couloir) of Argentier


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ICE Norway winter 2010

Me climbing last pitch of Hydne. Photo: Kristoffer SzilasThis ice conditions in Norway has been extraordinary this winter. All over southern Norway it was cold and stable temperatures from mid December to early March. In Romsdalen where I live the conditions has been OK on some of the classic lines. But due to the little snow and cold temperatures early in the season, the smaller streams witch makes the good alpine lines froze to early to make them climbable. But other places nearby, like Eikesdalen and Geiranger has seen a lot of first ascents. Unfortunately I’ve been a lot away for work and never made it to Geiranger this winter. But I’ve had some good climbing in Hemsedal, with some first ascent and I’ve got the chance to climb some of the bigger classic waterfalls that I’ve wanted to climb for a long time.

Below you can see pictures from some of the climbs.

Short movie from a wet day on Vettis. Credit: Bjørn-Eivind Aartun


Click on images to see larger versions


Soloppgang på Matterhorn

Soloppgang på Matterhorn


Sammen med Mont Everest er Matterhorn et av verdens mest kjente og ikoniske fjell – en frittstående pyramide som rager høyere enn 1000 meter over fjellene rundt – og sett fra Zermatt er Matterhorn et fantastisk skue. Og klatre på Matterhorn er krevende og kan være veldig utsatt om du ikke vet hva du gjør. Vi har guidet Matterhorn mange ganger og kjenner fjellet godt. Hörnli-ruta som klatres fra den Sveitsiske siden involverer 1200meter med alt fra utsatt gåing til klyving og bratt snø og is.

Fantastisk soloppgang høyt på Matterhorn

For å klatre Matterhorn må du være i  god fysisk form og være vant til å ferdes i utsatt terreng – noe klatreerfaring bør du også ha.
Du må være godt forberedt og godt akklimatisert. Vi ønsker i utgangspunktet at du bruker 4 dager (6 dager totalt) til forberedelse og akklimatisering sammen med oss, men vi kan også gjøre det på 3 dager totalt. En testtur vil vi uansett ha.
Vi kan også klatre fjellet fra Italia og Cervina, denne turen er litt mer krevende, men har vesentlig mindre folk og er vel så fin.
Forberedelsene og akklimatiseringen for Matterhorn gjør vi normalt i fjellene rundt Chamonix eller Zermatt – vi legger opp spennende turer som passer ditt nivå og klatrer et eller flere 4000meters fjell på veien.
Ta kontakt for mer info og evt spørsmål.

Hvor: Zermatt eller Cervina
Varighet: 3-6 dager
Når: Juli til tidlig September
Vanskelighetsgrad: Matterhorn er 1200 meter med klyving. Du må være i god form og vant til å ferdes i fjellet på snø is og klippe.
Antall gjester: 1 gjest pr fører på Matterhorn, opp til 2 gjester pr fører på akklimatisering
Pris: 20.000 pr pers for 5 dager med 2 pers. (en fører i 3 dager så to førere de 2 siste dagene)
Prisen inkluderer førere og alle deres kostnader. Dine reisekostnader og kostnader på hytter kommer i tillegg.

Her er en liten film fra Matterhorn 24. August 2011