Posts Tagged ‘Zermatt’

HAUTE ROUTE OG 4000METER TOPPER I MONTE ROSA

HauteRoute - Otemma breen i dårlig sikt

HauteRoute – Otemma breen i dårlig sikt

Våren har vært over snittet hektisk til fjells. Etter de to første Haute Route fra Chamonix til Zermatt hadde jeg noen dager fri. Været var helt enestående og jeg var egentlig veldig glad da jeg skulle begynne å jobbe igjen, man kan bli veldig sliten av ha fri i Alpene under så fordelaktige forhold.
 
Ny Haute Route – denne gangen var det den klassiske ruten på på sydsiden av Grand Combin som stod på programmet. Med forskjellige forhold og forskjellige grupper blir to turer aldri like, men det er alltid kjekt med litt variasjon i terrenget også. Det hadde ikke snødd på lenge og forholdene var litt krevende, hard skare på morgenen og skiføre var heller ikke det helt store nedover, men det var sol og fint vær. På ettermiddagen dag 4 begynte det (endelig) å snø og det gjorde det hele neste dag også. Turen over Pigne d’Arolla ble det ikke noe av, i stedet gikk vi den lange og kanskje litt kjedelige Otemma breen i null-sikt. Jeg hadde ikke gått den breen før så da fikk jeg gjort det også. Vi temaet mer eller mindre opp med en hyggelig Verbier-guide og byttet på å brøyte. Siste dagen til Zermatt ble den sjarmørrettapen det skal være; sprek gjeng, masse løssnø og sol!
 
Vel fremme i Zermatt rakk jeg egentlig bare en lunch før jeg satte meg på toget til Saas Fee for å møte nye gjester samme kveld. Vi hadde planlagt en “4000meter-uke” i fjellene mellom Saas og Zermatt. Værmeldingen var ganske dårlig og snøværet et par dager tidligre hadde lagt igjen vesentlige mengder snø i dette området, jeg var derfor ganske skeptisk til å begi meg i kast med høye fjell. Været ble hakket bedre enn meldt og snøen bidro mer til god skikjøring enn skredfarlige forhold. Det ble en uke preget av 4000meters topper, fantastisk skikjøring, sol og smil. Vi kom oss på toppen av Allalinhorn 4027m, Stralhorn 4190m, Breithorn 4164m, Signalkuppe (Punta Gnifetti) 4554m og Zumsteinspitze 4563m. Ikke værst for en uke med ganske dårlig værmelding og med tanke på at gjestene kom rett fra Norge uten akklimatisering. Det skal sies at det var en sprek gjeng selv om noen av de forlengst er over toppen (forsøk på intern humor).
Nedenfor følger noen bilder

Haute Route - på vei mot Col du Chardonnet. Aiguille Verte bak.

Haute Route – på vei mot Col du Chardonnet. Aiguille Verte bak.

 

HauteRoute - solnedgang fra soverommet på Cabane du Valsorey

HauteRoute – solnedgang fra soverommet på Cabane du Valsorey

 

Sååå fornøyde i Col de Valpelline.

Sååå fornøyde i Col de Valpelline.

 

Soloppgang. På vei mot Stralhorn

Soloppgang. På vei mot Stralhorn

 

Akkurat sånn det skal være - jentene først og gutta hanglende bak.

Akkurat sånn det skal være – jentene først og gutta hanglende bak.

 

Greit vær på toppen av Sognalkuppe 4554m

Greit vær på toppen av Sognalkuppe 4554m

 


TO HAUTE ROUTE – CHAMONIX TIL ZERMATT

Klassisk motiv fra turen mellom Dix og Vignettes

Klassisk motiv fra turen mellom Dix og Vignettes

I mars og april står normalt normalt lengre skiturer i Alpene på programmet og i år er intet unntak – vårsesongen på ski er min travleste jobb-periode. Nylig avsluttet jeg to Haute Route fra Chamonix til Zermatt på 12 dager. Det var litt tight å ankomme Zermatt på ettermiddagen også møte nye gjester i Chamonix samme kveld for så å starte dagen etter, men alt går. Været var stort sett veldig bra så da går det ikke ann å klage, spesielt så lenge snøen også holdt seg overraskende god. Etter Haute Route ble det en ad hoc tur til Berner Oberland og Aletcshorn på 4193 meter – et veldig flott fjell. Sola skinte der også.
Det er vårlige temperaturer i Chamonix om dagen og jeg har ambisjoner om å gjøre det beste ut av noen fridager – enten i fjellet eller nede i dalen.

 

Fra Argentiere mot Champex

Fra Argentiere mot Champex

For en gangs skyld fint vær på turens høyeste punkt - Pignes d'Arolla

For en gangs skyld fint vær på turens høyeste punkt – Pignes d’Arolla

Men ikke på tur nr 2 - vi gikk rundt Pignes

Men ikke på tur nr 2 – vi gikk rundt Pignes

Col de Valpelline - bare nedkjøringen til Zermatt igjen

Col de Valpelline – bare nedkjøringen til Zermatt igjen

Veldig fine forhold på vei mot Aletschorn

Veldig fine forhold på vei mot Aletschorn


HAUTE ROUTE – THE CLASSIC ROUTE FROM CHAMONIX TO ZERMATT

March 31. till April 5. I had a group for the Classic Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt. After some problems at the start with closed lifts, one meter of fresh snow and considerable avalanche danger we finally started our traverse of the western Alps on April 1. The day before was spent with avalanche rescue training and touring in Les Grands Montets.
When we finally started we did Col du Passon, Col du Superioeur du Tour and had amazing snow in Val d’Arpette down to Champex where we stayed one night. The next day we started from Bourg-Saint-Pierre and skinned up to Cabane de Valsoray in sunny weather. From Valsoray we had very good conditions on the climb up to Plateau du Couloir and good snow on north-facing aspects down the Durant glacier, we spent the night at Cabane du Chanrion. For the next to days the weather forecast was not the best. When starting from Chanrion it was clear sky, but windy. We planed to do the Serpentine glacier and over Pigne d’Arolla to Cabane des Vignettes instead of  doing the boring and never-ending Otemma glacier. Soon it was cloudy and by the time we got to Passage de la Serpentine it was windy, snowing and no visibility. We did not summit Pigne and the skiing down to Vignettes was interesting in whiteout – like being inside a bottle of milk. Last day to Zermatt was another day in clouds and bad visibility, but not much wind. Some times we did see something, but we had more or less whiteout on all descents. We never saw Matterhorn and by the time we arrived in Zermatt it was raining.
It’s not always sunny on Haute Route.
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GUIDING MATTERHORN

The day after summiting Matterhorn with Karine I started a new 5-day Matterhorn program with Ståle. The first day we climbing on the south face of Riffelhorn before we walked over to Hotel Flualp at 2620m. The next morning we hoped to climb Rimpfischhorn (4199m). We started in rain at night and the weather did not look to promising, but it was not to bad either. We summited in some wind, but on the descent it started snowing and the wind increased. It continued to snow/rain for the rest of the day and night. On day 3 we planed to do the full Breithorn traverse, but after all the snowfall the previous day we ended up doing only the half-traverse. On day 4 we walked up to the Hörnli hut, the weather was good and the hut was full. The next day it was a really busy day on Matterhorn. Conditions was good, but we had to wear crampons from approximately 3850m. We summited quite early and did not meet the worst queue before we were on the fixed ropes on the descent. Below are some pictures from the whole week.

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GUIDING IN CHAMONIX AND MATTERHORN

The last weeks I’ve been in the Alps guiding. From July 21.-26. I was guiding Karine on a Matterhorn program. First we had 4 beautiful days i Chamonix doing Aiguille du Moine, the Midi-Plan Traverse and the Cosmique Ridge. Then we traveled to Switzerland and Zermatt. There we walked up to the Hörnli Hut and on July 26. we climbed Matterhorn. It was a good day on Matterhorn, weather was perfect, conditions were quite good and it was not to much people. Below are some pictures from the whole week.

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GUIDING IN CHAMONIX AND 4000METER WEEK IN ZERMATT/SAAS FEE

On the weekend March 30. to April 1., I guided ski touring around Chamonix with Ellen, Morten and Christopher. We had amazing weather, the snow was not the best, but we found some nice slush every day. The first day we skied from Aiguille du Midi and over to the Italian border and down the Glacier de Toule to Helbronner mid station for lunch there. In the afternoon we skied back down Glacier du Geant and down to Montenvers. Day 2 we went to the Argentier basin and skied to Col d’ Argentier. On sunday we went to the Aiguille Rouges and Col du Belvedere.

The same afternoon I finished work in Chamonix I drove to Zermatt for 6 days of 4000 meter peak bagging between Zermatt and Saas Fee with Ola and Petter. They had already been acclimatizing for a few days so the first day we could climb Breithorn (4164m) and Pollux (4092m) before we skied down the Swarztor gletscher. Day two we took an early train to Saas Fee and climbed Allalinhorn (4027m) before we skied to the Britannia hut. In that afternoon the weather changed, after 2 weeks with perfect blu sky it finally started snowing. Day 3 the weather was not the best i and we were the only one leaving the hut after a early breakfast. But after a few hours we were above the clouds and on top of Stralhorn (4190m). We continued down Adlerpass to Findelgletscher, and in bad weather, we skinned up to Stockhornpass and traversed to my favorite hut, the New Monte Rosa Hut. Day 4 it had been snowing all night and it was still snowing in the morning. We had planed some kind of rest day and after a late start we skinned a few hundred meters up the Monte Rosa Gletscher towards Dufourspitze as the weather cleared. The skiing back down to the hut was amazing, 50cm of perfect snow. To bad my skies was only 80mm under foot. Day 5 the plan was to climb Dufourspitze (4634m) and Nordend (4609m), the two highest mountains in Switzerland. The weather was perfect and I had one of my most beautiful mornings in the mountains. But we had to turn around at 4250m, with all the fresh snow on top of hard crust, we could not justify to continue. So we enjoyed the same snow on the way down to the hut and continued down to Zermatt for lunch. The last day the weather forecast was not so good, but in the morning it was ok and we hoped to climb Castor(4223m) before it started snowing. Timing was perfect, we summited and it started snowing when we were  down on the lower Gornergletscher after skiing the Swarztor once again.

So, finally, after 20 days of ski touring boots I could have some days of.
The last two days I haven’t done much except resting and trying to catch up on my computer work. This morning I went up in the Aiguille Rouges and skied the Glacier du Mort. Since it’s north facing I had hoped to find good snow, but I was wrong, there had been to much wind.

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HAUTE ROUTE AND ZERMATT GUIDING

Since last blog update I’ve been busy. On March 17. I started in what has become the worlds biggest cross-country ski race – Birkebeineren. It was 11 years since my last ski race so I did not have to high goals, except to beat most of my old training buddies from Gran. The race is 54km, my skies was not the best for the first half, but they got better for the last half. I finished as 141 of around 16.000, not to bad for a mountain guide. But most important, I was faster than my friends from Gran :)
On the 18. I traveled to Chamonix to start guiding in the Alps the day after. Of course, one of my bags was delayed. All my ski gear was missing and I had a stressful day and night to get ready for Haute Route. Never book your flights through Copenhagen with less than one and a half hour for transit. It seams like thats the minimum it takes for the Copenhagen airport to move bags from one plane to another. I’ve had my bags delayed there once before and have had many clients who did not get they’re bags either.

Haute Route was fun, great clients and both weather and skiing was good. The first day we had heavy snowfall, but after that, mostly blue sky, no wind and warm for being March. We did the Verbier route, conditions in general is better than at the same time last year. But if this warm temperatures continues, the snow in south and west facing aspects will not last much longer.
After Haute Route I had one rest day in Zermatt before I started guiding again. The weather was still good and I wanted to get to know the area between Saas Fee and Zermatt better. I’m having a 6-days program there in easter. So, early in the morning I got on the first train to Saas Fee. First I climbed Allalinhorn, a 4000meter peak that is easy accessible from the ski lift. After that I climbed the ridge over to Feechopf and down to Alphubeljoch. Then I skied down to the Mellich-gletscher and up to Allalinpass, down to Allalin-gletscher and up to Adlerpass and down to Zermatt. A perfect day, but not exactly a rest day.

The next day I started a 3-days guiding around Zermatt. We had various planes, but because of some sickness we ended up doing something completely different from everything we had planed.
The first day we skied to the Monte Rosa hut, this was my first time at the new hut and it was almost better than I’ve been told. Day two, we climbed towards Dufourspitze, but had no plans about summiting. We turned around just above 4000meters and skied down to the hut. On north facing aspects we could still find good snow. The last day we skied down to Furi and took the lift to Kl Matterhorn. From there we climbed Breithorn and skied down the Swartztor gletscher – Zermatt’s Valle Blanch – before traveled back to Chamonix.

Today is a big organizing day before I start guiding again the next 9 days. I needed to get an look at conditions here so in the morning I went for a quick ski in the Aiguilles Rouges.

Below is a few pictures from the last 11 days.
Click on images to see larger versions

 


MATTERHORN VIDEO

Here’s a short movie from me guiding the Hörnli ridge on Matterhorn Aug. 24. with Erik Stordal.

 


ALPS SUMMER 2011

Sunrise on summit of Mont Blanc. We are already on the way down

The last three weeks I’ve been guiding in the Alps. First in Chamonix with two 6 days Mont Blanc programs. Then I moved to Zermatt to guide Matterhorn. Unfortunately I did not get any climbing done on my own. The weather and conditions were really good for most of my stay, but it was raining hard on all my days off. Below is pictures from acclimatization on both Mont Blanc weeks and from summit days on Mont Blanc and Matterhorn. First time on Matterhorn we started from Tête Rousse hut and climbed the Goûter route up and The Three Monts route down. The second time, we also did the traverse, but this time starting from Cosmiques Hut and climbed Three Monts up and Goûter down. On Matterhorn we climbed Hornli both up and down.

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4000-METER UKE I ZERMATT OG SAAS-FEE MED GUIDE

På toppen av Signalkuppe 4554m

På toppen av Signalkuppe 4554m


Området rundt Zermatt og Saas-Fee har de fleste av de høyeste fjelltoppene i Alpene og mange av de egner seg veldig godt for skiturer. Bli med på en fantastisk uke på noen av alpenes høyeste fjell.


Med utgangspunkt i Zermatt eller Saas-Fee har man tilgang på noen av de enkleste 4000 meters toppene i Alpene, men man har også tilgang på noen av de høysete. Her er det bare å velge å vrake. Enkelte av toppene kan man gå på ski helt til topps, men de fleste setter man igjen skiene litt nedenfor toppen og går på stegjern til topps. Og innimellom toppene prøver vi å få til så mye god skikjøring som mulig.

Nedenfor følger to forslag til ukesopplegg, begge på 5 dager. Hvis man legger på en dag til kan man enten legge på en dag ekstra i starten for mer akklimatisering, eller ha en ekstra dag å gå på mot slutten av uka. Vi anbefaler 6 dager.
Begge oppleggene krever god fysisk form og at man har god skiferdighet.

Soloppgang på vei mot Stralhorn

Soloppgang på vei mot Stralhorn

Signalkuppe-uke
Forslag med grupper på opp til 4-6 pers
Dag 0: Oppmøte i Saas-Fee
Dag 1: Allalinhorn 4027m – overnatting på Britannia hytta
Dag 2: Stralhorn 4190m – gjennom Adlerpasset og ned til Zermatt
Dag 3: Breithorn 4164m – ned Schwarztor breen og til Monte Rosa hytta
Dag 4: Ludwigshöhe 4321m og/eller Vincentpyramide 4215m – overnatting på Mantova hytta i Italia
Dag 5: Parrotspitze 4432m og/eller Signalkuppe 4454m – ned til Zermatt
På disse toppene kan vi ha med opp til 6 personer, men i utgangspunktet ønsker vi ikke mer enn 4 gjester pr fører. Om vi har vært på tur med dere før, og vet at dere har de rette forutsetningene, kan vi ta med opp til 6 pers pr fører.

Dufourspitze-uke
Maks 2 gjester pr fører
Dag 0: Oppmøte i Saas-Fee
Dag 1: Allalinhorn 4027m – overnatting på Britannia hytta
Dag 2: Rimpfischorn 4199m – overnatting på Britannia hytta
Dag 3: Stralhorn 4190m – gjennom Adlerpasset og ned til Zermatt
Dag 4: Breithorn 4164m, Pullox 4092m eller Castor 4223m, ned Schwarztor breen og til Monte Rosa hytta
Dag 5: Dufourspitze 4634m (og Nordend 4609m) – ned til Zermatt
Dufourspitze er Alpene nest høyeste fjell og krever klatring de siste meterne mot toppen.

Detaljer
Hvor: Zermatt og Saas Fee
Reise: Fly til Geneve eller Zurich, tog eller shuttle derfra.
Når: Medio mars til ultimo april
Vanskelighetsgrad: Disse turene krever at du er i god fysisk form og at du har gode skiferdigheter både oppover og nedover.
Antall gjester: 1-6 pr fører
Priser for 2015 (5 dager):
– ved 2 pers: NOK 13 750 pr pers
– ved 3 pers: NOK 9 600 pr pers
– ved 4 pers: NOK 7 500 pr pers
– ved 5 pers: NOK 6 250 pr pers
– ved 6 pers: NOK 5 500 pr pers
Prisen inkluderer guide og alle hans kostnader. Dine reise, kost og losji kommer I tillegg.
Ta kontakt for pris ved større grupper.

På toppen av Stralhorn

På toppen av Stralhorn

 

Monte Rosa hytta og Matterhorn

Monte Rosa hytta og Matterhorn

 


BACK IN CHAMONIX – SKI, CLIMB, WORK

Nils climbing in the Alpes. Photo by Colin Haley

On March 10, after two weeks of work with the Norwegian military academy, I was back in Chamonix. I was excited to start with two weeks of skiing and climbing with friends before starting the Haute Route season. The first week the weather was not the best – warm foehn wind and some snow so we ended up with skiing and climbing at the gym in Les Houches. On the 15, Colin Haley arrived, our plan was to climb and ski as much as possible together to get fit for our upcoming Alaska trip in May/June.

After some snowfall we started with some skitouring in the Argentier basin. The best day was definately skiing the normal route (west) on Aiguille d’ Argentier with Colin and Morgan Sahlen on March 20. Some days later we tried to climb the Frendo Spur in the north face of Midi, but bailed low on the route after battling with some of the worst snow conditions any of us had ever experienced – we couldn’t even get up to the steeper part of the route.

On March 23, we climbed the north face of Les Droites starting from the first lift. Last year we climbed Le Ginat together, but now we wanted to climb something that would take us to the top of the mountain, not just to the Breche des Droites. We did the Messner Route and like the other two times we climbed Les Droites we “descended” by climbing the west ridge of Le Courtes and down the northeast to our skis in the Argentier basin. We found a much better way down Droites than earlier and did not loose to much elevation before going up the west ridge of Courtes. And I think that this is by far the easiest way to get off the mountain, specially when it’s a lot of snow and as long as you don’t climb with your skis on the pack, which is no fun anyway.

On the 25, we climbed the Coutrier on Aiguille Verte – one of my favorite summits in the Alpes. We hoped to ski the Whymper on the south side, but conditions were really bad. Colin took a few turns while I did’t even take on my skis in the couloir.

The next day I started guiding Haute Route from Chamonix to Saas Fee. One week of mostly good weather, but not so good snow. We did the normal Verbier variant but never got to Saas Fee. The last day we had a ski tour in Zermatt.

Back in Chamonix, after one day of rest, Colin and me had a mellow day in the Argentier basin by simul-soloing the Swiss route on Les Courtes. Both of us had soloed the route before, but now we could both enjoy the freedom of climbing without a rope and the fun of climbing with a partner. The route was in perfect condition and the climb took us around 2 hours from bergschround to summit. As usual, we down climbed the northeast back to our skis and were back in Chamonix in early afternoon. Another perfect day in the mountains.

There’s been mostly good weather since and we been climbing a lot, but more about that later.


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PRIVAT GUIDING – CUSTUM CLIMBS IN THE ALPS

Situated in the middle of Europe, there’s no where else in the world where you have so easy access to spectacular mountains. The Alps is said to be the birthplace of modern mountaineering and alpinism, and it offers easy routes for beginners and steeper, longer and more demanding routes for highly skilled mountaineers. And everything in between.
Do you have special route or mountain you want to climb? Or do you just want to climb and experience the mountains with a private guide? The Alps is a perfect place to experience and learn more about mountaineering. The lifts and the huts makes access easy and we can travel with light backpacks and focus on the climbing.
For most climbs in the Alps you need at least 1 or 2 days of acclimatization before the routes, and for the bigger routes on the highest peaks you should have 3-4 days. On this days we do interesting climbs that prepare us for the route we’re aboute to climb.

Below you can see a list of peaks and routes from different areas. The list shows just some of the routes I guide, please contact me if you want more information. I customize programs for you!

Mont Blanc Range – France:
Mont Blanc – Normal routes, Bionnassay or Innominata Route (from Italy)
Mont Maudit – Normal Route or Kuffner ridge
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Aiguille Du Midi – Cosmiques Ridge or Frendo Spur
Dent du Geant
Aiguille de Rochefort – Rochefort Ridge
Tour Ronde – North face, Gervasitti or South ridge
Midi-Plan Traverse
Aiguille du Chardonnet – Forbes Ridge
Aiguille Verte – Whymper Couloir (south) or Couturier (north)
Les Courtes – Travers
Grandes Jorasses – Traverse or Normal route

Wallis/Vallee – Switzerland:
Matterhorn – Hörnli Ridge or Zmutt Ridge
Monte Rosa – Normal Route
Weissmies – Normal Route or South Ridge(Traverse)
Breithorn – Normal Route or Half/Full traverse
Pollux
Castor
Weisshorn

Berner Oberland – Switzerland
Eiger – Mittellegi or South ridge
Mönch – Southeast or Southwest Ridge
Jungfrau – Normal route

Bernina/Engadine – Switzerland
Piz Badile – North Ridge or North Face (Cassin)
Piz Bernina – Biancograt
Piz Palu
Piz Morteratsch
______________________________________________

Duration: You decide 
When: June to end of September
Difficulties: All levels
Ratio: 1:1 or 2:1 depending on route

Price from: 
NOK 3.500,- per person pr day
(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide, all expenses for your guide and climbing equipment)

BOOKING OR MORE INFO


GUIDING AND CLIMBING IN ALPES

Per Magne on GrandCapucin

Sept 4.2010

After a summer with two much work in Norway I traveled to the Alpes on August 8. for some work and hopefully some climbing on my own. First I traveled to Valais to do a couple of recognition climbs for guiding later in the month. Then I traveled to Chamonix to climb for a week with Trym. But the day Trym arrived it started to rain in town and snow up high and the forecast said it would be like that for 4 days all over the Central Alpes. We packed rope and quickdraws, and together with some friends left Cham and drove down to Ceüse. There, the weather was better but for a mountain guide who mainly been walking and climbing grade 3 all summer, everything but the approach felt very steep.

When weather looked better for the Alpes we went back to Chamonix, there it had snowed  around 50 cm at 3000 meters, but after some days of good weather we hoped that it had melted enough and headed up to the Enveres hut. But we were to early and everything was still wet. Trym went home and the last day before I started working I teamed up with Ole Kristian and Steinar for a day at the south face of Midi. Weather was not very good, light snowfall at times and forecast said thunderstorm in early afternoon so we did Rebuffat to be sure to get up before the weather came. All of us had done the route before, but it was nice to finally do some climbing in the mountains and we had a very fun day, specially at the belays…

On August 21. I started a 6 days Matterhorn program with two Norwegians – Tone and Knut Johan Stenerud. First we had three days in Saastal with some rock climbing on Dri Horlini and a ascent of Weissmies (4017m). In the afternoon on the third day we traveled to Zermatt, there we did Breithorn (4164m) the next day. All week it was very uncertain about how conditions would be on Matterhorn. The big snowfall a week earlier had left around 60cm of snow at the Hörnli hut and a lot more on the mountain. It was melting every day, but we didn’t know if it would be enough. But with the good weather forecast we decided to try. On Matterhorn the guide:client ratio is 1:1 so Rok Zalokar, my Slovenian friend and guide joined us for the ascent. I started early from Zermatt on the 25. to climb a little higher then the Hörnli to check out conditions. I turned back at the Shoulder at 4200m, up to there conditions were good but above it looked like it was a lot of snow. As always on the Hörnli hut, “breakfast” is served at 04.00 and all guided parties start at 04.20. The ascent went OK, some queuing the first hour and the normal chaos on the fixed ropes up high. We summited 08.30 in blue sky and perfect weather. On the descent it was even more chaos than on the ascent but below the Shoulder everything went smoothly and we were at the hut again before 13.00.

After Matterhorn I traveled back Chamonix for some climbing in the mountains. But the weather was not the best and I just ended up rock climbing close to Sallanches and in Italy. When it finally cleared again Per Magne and I had two great days on the granite. The first day we climbed on the south face of Pointe Lachenal and the next day we wanted to try Grand Capucin. Capucin is not a very high summit, but on of the most impressing granite towers in the Mont Blanc massif. The 400 meter high east face has the most challenging routes, we climbed a combination of Voie des Suisses and O Sole Mio on the South face, mostly grade 5 with some pitches of 6. It was for sure on of my best days of rock climbing in the Alpes! Now I start 6 days of work in Chamonix and we hope to climb Mont Blanc.

 

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END OF WINTER

HauteRoute 2010 04 19-24 2010-04-20On April 19. I started guiding my third and last Haute Route for the season, Also this time for my company, Breogfjell. We had a good week with warm temperatures and very stable snow conditions. In combination with very good client this gave me a quite easy week of work. But we had a very hard time finding good snow.

After Haute Route I returned home to Romsdalen for some ski guiding there before I went to Turtagrø and Highcamp. Breogfjell is responsible for all the guiding there and we had 20 guides on work May 7.-9. Weather was perfect and cold temperatures gave good conditions for skiing.

Next week I guided Karine for three days home in Romsdalen. The first day we did Hesteskotraversen in perfect conditions, cold in the morning and good slush down from Kirketaket in the afternoon. The next day we did Juratind. Warmer temperatures during the night gave very loose snow all the way to the top and down again, but it wasn’t to bad. The last day we did Skjervan from the east. We could drive quite high and had perfect weather and OK snow.

After a long winter it was very good to finally put away the skis and start rock climbing. And as always after a winter with to much guiding and alpine climbing, the first days on rock felt terrible for my fingers.

Click on images to see larger versions


A “REST WEEK” IN CHAMONIX

The east ridge on Courte with Grand Jorasses behind

After guiding Haute Route two times in two weeks I was looking forward to a week off, to get out climbing and skiing on my own. Before I was back in Chamonix, Colin Haley called and asked if I wanted to climb the north face of Droites with him the day after. Still not fully recovered from my cold I said no, but after a couple of hours of regret I said yes.

On April 10. we had a “cragging” approach to the 1000 meter high face by taking the first lift in the morning and starting climbing at 10 am. We did the classic route, Ginat, and found good conditions on the snowy, lower part and OK, but a little dry conditions on the steeper upper part. We did not go to the true summit, but as most others only climbed to the Breche des Droites. The climb took us 5 hours and 30 minutes. The “descent” was down the south side and then up the south side and west ridge of Les Courtes making it a very long day. And in the afternoon clouds, we had a hard time finding the Col de la Tour the Courtes.

Some days later I went up to ski the Gervasutti couloir on La tour Ronde with Colin and Marion Poitivin. Tour Ronde is a small summit on the French-Italian border close to Helbronner. The skiing was not the best, lots of rock at the top of the couloir and fresh snow on top of a hard layer further down. But we had a good day out.

The day after, Colin, Magnus, Jonno and me, headed up the Argentiere glacier for skiing the NE-face of Les Courtes. Descending it some days earlier after the Droites-Courtes climb we thought that conditions would be perfect for steep skiing. And it was, except for the skiers right side of the face. Magnus tried that and ended up tomahawking the entire 700 vertical meters, 45-50 degree face. We feared the worst and was very relieved to see him move after the long fall. Jonno called rescue while Colin and me started skiing down to Magnus. Except for some bruises on the arm, Magnus was fine. But he was taken by the PGHM rescue to the hospital in Sallanches for a routine check.

On April 16., Colin and me took the last lift to sleep at the top of Grand Montets to start early the next day. We wanted to do a linkup in the Argentier basin by climbing the three north faces of Verte, Droites and Courtes in one go. We started at 5 am the next morning and climbed Verte up and down by the classic Couturier couloir. This day was more about endurance then technical climbing so we did routes that we could simul-solo. After Verte we climbed the Lagarde direct to the true summit of Droites. As last time, we descended the south side and ascended Courtes from the west. The plan was to downclimb the NE face and then climb the Swiss route on Courtes. But after descending the NE our motivation was lame  for climbing the Courtes again. So we walked back to our skis and skied down to Argentier. After all we was satisfied with three summits and after ascending and descending around 3000 vertical meters in 12 hours.

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GUIDING HAUTE ROUTE – TIMES 2

On March 28. I started two weeks of guiding Haute Route – from Chamonix to Zermatt for Breogfjell. On the first trip, we had a lot of snow and wind on the first days and the avalanche bulletin said grade 4. So instead of doing the Col du Chardonnet to the Trient Hut we did the Col du Tour Noir and skied back down to Grand Montets and took a taxi to Verbier. The next days we experienced all types of weather and snow before it finally cleared and we had perfect weather and good skiing down to Zermatt.

The next week Breogfjell had two groups on Haute Route, Stein Møller and me guiding the Verbier-variant and Halvor Dannevig doing the classic route. The first day it was snowing a lot, but starting from Argentier Hut in the morning of April 5., we had clear sky and a lot of fresh snow. Breaking trail all the way to Trient Hut was hard work. The next morning we had good snow and perfect skiing down Val d´Arpette to Champex. The same day, we also had good skiing from the summit of Rosablanche and down to the Prafleuri Hut. From Prafleuri to Dix we had good weather and those who went up to La Luette in the afternoon had good skiing down. Over Pigne d´Arolla, weather was changing and skiing down to Vignettes Hut was memorable, but not in a good way. I had a cold and some fever the whole week and when one client wanted to go down to Arolla the next morning, I was happy to join him while Stein and Halvor took the two groups safely to Zermatt.

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HAUTE ROUTE – Ski Chamonix to Zermatt with guide

For many reasons, the classic ski tour from Chamonix to Zermatt has become one of the best known skitours in the world. Traveling from one one historic town to the next, it takes you into the heart of the Alps and into some amazing alpine terrain. You ski through high cols, hidden valleys, high peaks and spectacular glaciers. And the complex hut system in the Alps makes it possible to travel light and comfortable. No matter how much skiing you have done and how many places you have visited – Haute Route will be a unique experience.

 

Alternatives:
There is also a lot of other Haute Routes (high routes) in the Alps. But the Chamonix-Zermatt is the most famous and most popular and is often synonym to Haute Route. The Verbier variant is the easiest and most popular of this, but the the Original route is more challenging and spectacular, traveling the Plateau Couloir and visiting the Valsorey hut. Or you can do other different variants to the Chamonix-Zermatt tour. and you can also add some extra days after arriving in Zermatt, either ski to Saas Fee or ascend the summit of Breithorn or Monte Rosa.
And if you want to do a ski tour in other places in the Alps, such as Berner Oberland, Silveretta or other places, please let me know.

Where: Chamonix to Zermatt 
Duration: 5 or 6 days 
When: March to end of April
Routes: The Verbier Route or the Classic route via Valsorey Hut.
Difficulties: You should be used to ski in varied terrain, both up and down. Haute Route is never very difficult or very hard, but it still requires that you are an intermediate skier and that you are used to ski with a heavy (10-12kg) backpack.
If you are not sure if you got what it takes I recommend a training tour in Norway or the Alps in advance.
Gear: You need normal ski touring gear that are not to heavy.
Telemark gear works but alpine touring gear is much better. Snowboard or Splitboard
are not made for Haute Route! You will get a complete gear list when booking.
Ratio: 6:1 on the Verbier route and 4:1 on the Classic route

Price from: 
NOK 5500,- per person for 5 days
(Price includes IFMGA mountain guide and all expenses for your guide)

BOOKING OR MORE INFO

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MATTERHORN MED NORSK FØRER

Soloppgang på Matterhorn

Soloppgang på Matterhorn


MATTERHORN ER ALPENES SVAR PÅ STORE SKAGASTØLSTIND, ROMSDALSHORN OG STETIND TILSAMMEN. ET MUST FOR ALLE TOPPSAMLERE. VI HAR LANG ERFARING OG HAR FØRT GJESTER TRYGT TIL PÅ TOPPEN AV DETTE IKONSKE FJELLET MANGE GANGER.


Sammen med Mont Everest er Matterhorn et av verdens mest kjente og ikoniske fjell – en frittstående pyramide som rager høyere enn 1000 meter over fjellene rundt – og sett fra Zermatt er Matterhorn et fantastisk skue. Og klatre på Matterhorn er krevende og kan være veldig utsatt om du ikke vet hva du gjør. Vi har guidet Matterhorn mange ganger og kjenner fjellet godt. Hörnli-ruta som klatres fra den Sveitsiske siden involverer 1200meter med alt fra utsatt gåing til klyving og bratt snø og is.

Fantastisk soloppgang høyt på Matterhorn

For å klatre Matterhorn må du være i  god fysisk form og være vant til å ferdes i utsatt terreng – noe klatreerfaring bør du også ha.
Du må være godt forberedt og godt akklimatisert. Vi ønsker i utgangspunktet at du bruker 4 dager (6 dager totalt) til forberedelse og akklimatisering sammen med oss, men vi kan også gjøre det på 3 dager totalt. En testtur vil vi uansett ha.
Vi kan også klatre fjellet fra Italia og Cervina, denne turen er litt mer krevende, men har vesentlig mindre folk og er vel så fin.
Forberedelsene og akklimatiseringen for Matterhorn gjør vi normalt i fjellene rundt Chamonix eller Zermatt – vi legger opp spennende turer som passer ditt nivå og klatrer et eller flere 4000meters fjell på veien.
Ta kontakt for mer info og evt spørsmål.

Detaljer
Hvor: Zermatt eller Cervina
Varighet: 3-6 dager
Når: Juli til tidlig September
Vanskelighetsgrad: Matterhorn er 1200 meter med klyving. Du må være i god form og vant til å ferdes i fjellet på snø is og klippe.
Antall gjester: 1 gjest pr fører på Matterhorn, opp til 2 gjester pr fører på akklimatisering
Pris: 20.000 pr pers for 5 dager med 2 pers. (en fører i 3 dager så to førere de 2 siste dagene)
Prisen inkluderer førere og alle deres kostnader. Dine reisekostnader og kostnader på hytter kommer i tillegg.

Her er en liten film fra Matterhorn 24. August 2011

Matterhorn

Matterhorn